Sandia Chang, co-owner of a new London restaurant focusing on hot
dogs and grower Champagne, has spoken out in defence of small independent
growers. ‘I’m keen to champion Champagne’s underdogs to Londoners – Krug and
Dom Pérignon are great, but they don’t need my help,” Chang told the drinks business.
Chang, whose CV includes stints at Noma, Per Se and
Roganic, opened Bubbledogs on Charlotte Street last week with her chef husband
James Knappett, ex-head chef of Marcus Wareing at The Berkeley. The restaurant
was in part inspired by Crif Dogs, a hot dog restaurant and cocktail lounge in
New York’s East Village, accessed via a secret door.
“I’ve long nurtured the idea of a grower Champagne and hot dog
restaurant. It was just a pipe dream at first, but when I found the Charlotte
street venue I realised it could work. I’ve worked with a lot of the producers
on the list and I’m keen to get their names out there; I want
Londoners to pay attention to grower Champagne,” Chang said.
In order to tempt customers to try the lesser-known labels, Chang
has only added a small mark up to the fizz. Champagnes from the likes of Gaston
Chiquet, Guy Charlemange and Olivier Horiot range from £6-£11 a glass and
£26-£180 a bottle, with Jacques Selosse Substance Blanc de Blancs topping the
list.
Hush Heath Balfour Brut Rosé from Kent holds up the English end,
while LA-raised Chang has added a taste of home with Gruet from New Mexico,
which boasts some of the highest vineyards in the US. “Salty food always
pairs well with bubbles, as the fizz helps to cut through the fat,” said
Chang of the decision to focus on grower Champagne.
Are you going to review it? Sounds interesting. Particularly intrigued what a top chef like James will be doing with hot dogs? Find it hard to believe that he will spend much time there in person unless there's something they're not telling us!
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