Last Friday, I wrote a news piece on db.com
based on wine writer Andrew Jefford’s comments from the European
Wine Bloggers Conference in Izmir, Turkey, earlier this month, where he hailed
the wine writer to be “dead” in a keynote speech. The piece attracted a lot of
attention and debate, so I thought it was worth featuring here on my blog. Interestingly,
I am an example that goes against Jefford’s argument, as I make my living as a
full-time wine writer.
I appreciate that I am hugely lucky and in a minority, but there are
still a few of us out there, and the traditional media of newspapers, magazines
and books is far from dead, but rather being forced to adapt to our
techno-focused times. There will always be room for talented writers in all
fields – you just need to work incredibly hard and network your butt off in
order to succeed in today’s ever-competitive publishing industry. What do you think –
is the wine writer dead?
Here’s the Jefford story I ran: Award winning wine writer Andrew Jefford
has hailed the wine writer to be “dead”. During an address at the European Wine
Bloggers Conference in Izmir, Turkey, last week, Jefford said: “The fact that
this conference exists is proof that the old wine writing world has
disappeared. The creature which we used to call ‘a wine writer’ has died.” Jefford
revealed in his speech that print articles represent under 40% of his income, a
percentage that is falling every year, describing it as “the least remunerative
of the things I do.”
He suggested the word “communicator” as a better descriptor of today’s
wine professionals. “There are no more livings to be made exclusively in the
old way. The wine world probably doesn’t need more writers,” he admitted,
though said there was still a need for “multi-tasking communicators”. He also
warned against those seeking to become “generalist” wine writers. “Can anyone
hope to be a generalist in a wine world which, like the universe, is
expanding rapidly in every direction?,” he asked.
With the rise of the internet, Jefford believes the “old gatekeepers”:
newspapers, magazines and publishing houses, are becoming less important as an
arena for wine writing. “Those who can generate income without recourse to the
old gatekeepers will be creating the most durable and profitable model for wine
writing in the future,” he said.
Finally, he made a plea for more humour and irreverence in today’s wine
writing. “There is an urgent vacancy for humorous, witty, caustic writing about
wine powered by gonzo irreverence. The vast majority of wine drinkers take it
for granted that wine is inseparable from hilarity. Almost all of us take it
too seriously, too earnestly, too reverently,” he said, urging wine bloggers to
“let rip”.
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