Have
you ever tried demi-sec Champagne? If so, would you ever admit to liking the
semi-sweet style? Champagne Jacquart’s chief winemaker Floriane Eznack doesn’t
think so. Speaking to the drinks business
at a tasting lunch at Chrysan in London last week, she told the magazine demi-sec
has become the elephant in the room in Champagne.
“Our
demi-sec sales are growing, but it’s the wine we don’t talk about. There’s
still a prejudice surrounding the style. In the past people would add sugar to
their Champagne to hide faults so it has a negative connotation. No one likes
to talk about demi-sec in the region, but a lot of people like to drink it. The
style isn’t going out of fashion, if anything it’s getting more popular,” she
said.
Us
Brits are notorious for having a sweet tooth and happily sing the praises of
sweeter Sherry styles such as Oloroso, so why the hang up about demi-sec?
There’s an implication that sweetness levels correspond to intellect, and the
drier you like your wine the higher your intellect and more rapier-like your
wit. Nonsense! Demi-sec has its place in both the Champagne arena and on the
dinner table. It makes for a sensational food match with desserts like tarte
tartan.
My
taste tends to veer towards the drier end of the Champagne spectrum, but I’m
staunchly against the idea of snobbery towards demi-sec for snobbery’s sake –
it suffers the same prejudice as still rosé. Having spent a few glorious days in
Provence this summer and witnessed first hand the time, care and attention
top-end producers like Château d’Esclans and Domaines Ott put into their rosés,
I find the narrow-mindedness of those who fail to take it seriously as a
style hard to swallow.
All
wine styles should be given a chance to prove themselves on their individual
merits. As an aside, the aforementioned Eznack also revealed to db that sales of Jacquart rosé are
booming in Japan due to the positive associations with the colour pink in the
county. “Pink is a very important colour in Japan – it signals the coming of
spring and cherry blossom, so our rosé sales have always been high there. I
also think it pairs really well with Japanese cuisine, particularly sushi.”
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