Châteaux
Margaux is to release a third wine onto the market this year. As reported on db.com, Margaux de Château Margaux 2009
is made from wine that didn’t make it into the estate’s second label, Pavillon
Rouge. According to Margaux’s managing director Paul Pontallier, around 3,000
cases of the wine were made, with the majority coming onto the market this
autumn rather than being sold en primeur. A price for the wine has yet to be
decided.
Margaux
de Château Margaux was created due to the favourable conditions of the 2009 vintage, which
meant that the wine that didn’t make it into Pavillon Rouge was of such a high
standard it merited its own bottling. Previously, the wine had been
declassified and used for generic AOC Margaux. The addition of Margaux de
Château Margaux to the Margaux portfolio means the estate now produces four
wines, taking the AOC Margaux into account.
Like father like son: Paul and Thibault Pontallier |
As
for the 2012 vintage, Pontallier told me during a tasting at the château last
week that the key to a successful 2012 en primeur campaign would be finding the
right price point for the grand vin. “The global market is more open than it’s
ever been but we need to come out at the right price point and listen to what the market wants,” he said.
Proving
that it does listen to the market, last year Margaux came out at €360 a bottle
for its 2011 vintage, down 40% on the €600 release price of 2010. Composed of
87% Cabernet, Pontallier describes Margaux 2012 as sharing the concentration of
2009 and superior in quality to 2011 due to its better tannic structure, freshness
and softness. Pontallier believes that while 2012 Margaux is drinking well
early, it is “built for the next 50 years.”
While
he was pleased with the quality of Margaux’s top wine, quality was by no means
uniform across the board, with more AOC Margaux made in 2012 than any previous
vintage. “For us the vintage was very heterogeneous, with different levels of
quality and style. For our best terroirs, it was an outstanding vintage for
Cabernet, but it didn’t ripen well in the lesser terroirs in the region,” he
said.
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