California wine pioneer Jim Barrett, owner of Château Montelena in the Napa
Valley, has died aged 86 of “a life well-lived.” As reported on db.com, Speaking of the sad news, his
son Bo Barrett said: “He was a tough and loving man who will be greatly missed
at home, at the winery and throughout the Napa Valley.”
In 1972 Barrett founded the Calistoga winery, which was originally built
in 1888, rescuing it from neglect and dilapidation. Four years later it shot to
international fame when its 1973 Chardonnay beat a quartet of top white
Burgundies to win first place among the whites in the historic Judgement of
Paris tasting in 1976 organised by wine writer Steven Spurrier, who then worked
as a wine merchant in the City of Light.
Helping to put California on the world wine map, Barrett famously told a
reporter after the upset: "Not bad for kids from the sticks.” The story of
Montelena’s historic triumph was made into a film in 2008 – Bottle Shock
– starring Bill Pullman as Barrett and Alan Rickman as a mustachioed Steven
Spurrier. In 2010, one of the last bottles of the 1973 Chardonnay was sold at a
London auction for £7,419.
Bill Pullman as Jim Barrett and Chris Pin as Bo Barrett in Bottle Shock |
Born in LA in 1926, Barrett served in the navy during World War II. Graduating
from UCLA in 1946, he went on to complete a law degree at Loyola Marymount
University. When war broke out in Korea he was recalled and served as a
lieutenant on a submarine. After the war ended, he built a successful legal
practice, but dreamt of starting a winery.
In 1972, Barrett bought the old stone Château Montelena property in
Calistoga, at the time covered in overgrown vineyards and in serious need of
attention. He cleared and replanted the original vineyard with Cabernet
Sauvignon vines, hired Mike Grgich as winemaker and released his first wines
that same year.
While his Cabernet vines matured, Barrett focused on Chardonnay made from
bought in grapes, with the success of the 1973 Chardonnay at the Judgement of
Paris tasting turning Château Montelena into a household name. The winery’s first
Cabernet Sauvignon was released in 1978, and has since become one of the most
revered Old World-style Cabernets made in the Napa Valley. In addition, Château Montelena also makes Zinfandel and
Riesling.
Château Montelena |
Bo was made winemaker in 1982, but Barrett remained actively involved in
the day-to-day running of the winery. In 2008, he signed an agreement to sell
Montelena to Michel Reybier, owner of Château Cos d'Estournel in Bordeaux,
reportedly for over US$120 million. But when the global economy floundered, the
sale fell through.
Bo, who is married to Heidi Peterson-Barrett, maker of the inaugural vintage
of cult California wine Screaming Eagle, will continue to run the family-owned winery,
staying true to his father’s vision: “He has prepared a succession plan which
will ensure the winery stays in our family for as many decades going forward as
we have enjoyed during his life," said Bo, adding, “Château Montelena has
a wonderful future.”