In an article originally published in The Drinks Business, I look into my crystal ball to bring you what I think will be the ten biggest food and drink trends in
the UK this year. By way of reference, here are my 2013 predictions. Agree or disagree? Let me know in the comment box below.
1: Eastern Promise
Following on from last year’s interest in Korean food, 2014 will see
Vietnamese food given the spotlight via Bobby Chinn’s House of Ho, which opened
in Soho this week. Drawing on 18 years of cooking experience in Hanoi and
Saigon, Chinn (pictured), who was born in New Zealand to a Chinese father and Egyptian
mother, will bring a contemporary approach to Vietnamese cooking via the likes
of apple-smoked pork belly with braised cabbage, lemongrass monkfish, and duck
"a la banana" – shredded confit duck banana blossom salad.
Also set to take off in London this year is Japanese-Peruvian fusion,
known as Nikkei cuisine, championed at places like the recently opened Chotto Matte
in Soho, where black cod and maki rolls share a menu with sea bass ceviche and
scallop tiradito. A buzz is steadily building around Hakkasan founder Alan
Yau’s next venture, Duck & Rice, which bills itself as a “Chinese
gastropub”, while there are also high hopes that the ramen burger, invented at
a New York food festival last summer by Keizo Shimamoto, will make it across
the pond this year.
2: Savoury cocktails
With London at the epicenter of innovation, the trend for savoury
cocktails will continue to evolve in 2014, championed by the London Cocktail
Club and Tony Conigliaro at The Grain Store through creations such as the
Pumpkin Bellini and Green Tomato Margarita. Expect to see more of the likes of
bacon-infused, mustard and horseradish vodka being used as a base spirit in
cocktails, while spices will also weave their way into mixed drinks to add heat
and interest without the unwanted calories.
In keeping with the trend for vegetable-based cocktails, The Botanist in
Sloane Square has launched a range of ginseng liqueur Kamm & Sons
five-a-day cocktails, including the Green Twist, made with juiced spinach, Kamm
& Sons and celery; and the Beetroot Mary – a twist on the Bloody Mary using
beetroot in place of tomato juice. Speaking of tomato, there is even talk of
pizza cocktails coming to the capital by way of New York. You’ve been warned…
3: The return of fine dining
After years of penny pinching, pop-ups, burger joints and casual dining
outlets, there will be a return to fine dining in the capital, with Londoners
craving attentive customer service and a sense of occasion. As we emerge from
the grips of the recession, there will be a change in mindsets and a desire to
feel well looked after when eating out. Though rather than stuffy service and
starched table cloths, a new breed of fine dining establishment will emerge
that prides itself on offering, as Marcus Wareing puts it, “a dinner party
atmosphere.”
The Gordon Ramsay protégé is so keen to adapt to the times that he’s
ordered a £1.4m makeover of his “dated” two Michelin-starred Knightsbridge
restaurant, with heavily starched linen going on the bonfire and less of an
emphasis placed on tasting menus. 2014 will see waiting staff taking more of an
American approach to service, with warmth and friendliness triumphing over
formality.
4: The rise of the restaurant bar
No longer either non-existent or simply an afterthought, we will see the
restaurant bar rise to prominence this year, such as the Campari, Aperol and
Negroni bars at Russell Norman’s three Polpo sites, with the best becoming
destination venues in themselves, independent of the restaurants they inhabit.
An early champion of this trend was Jason Atherton, who pioneered the
concept at his Michelin-starred flagship Pollen Street Social, and rolled it
out to sister sites Social Eating House in Soho, which boasts a speakeasy-style
bar, The Blind Pig, on the first floor, and the hugely popular and regularly
star-studded Berners Tavern at the London Edition hotel, where quirky cocktails
like the Dill or No Dill and the Cereal Killer are given top billing. As the
calibre of cocktails improves at restaurant bars, increasing efforts will be
made to integrate cocktails throughout a meal, rather than them being used
solely as bookends.
5: The continued brasserie boom
If 2012 was the year of the steakhouse in London, 2013 will be
remembered as the year of the brasserie, with seasoned French chef Eric Chavot scooping
a Michelin star mere months after opening his eponymous Brasserie Chavot in
Mayfair and Bethnal Green-born father of five Keith McNally upping sticks from
New York to open the hotly anticipated London outpost of his hugely successful
and oft star-studded brasserie Balthazar in Covent Garden.
The ever-buzzing Bermondsey Street also saw the arrival of adorable,
stamp-sized bistro Casse-Croûte, run by Hervé Durochat, a partner in José
Pizarro’s two restaurants on the same street. And with the recent opening of
Blanchette in Soho and all-day brasserie One Kensington, from the team behind
Tamarind, opening in March, London’s brasserie boom is showing no sign of
slowing this year.
6: Back to basics
There will be a return to simplicity on the cocktail front this year,
with contemporary twists on classic cocktails continuing to thrive and
molecular mixology shunned in favour of simple creations that shine a light on
the quality of the base spirit. In line with the trend, elaborate garnishes
will be out, and understated presentation in quality glassware in. The number
of ingredients used in cocktails will be reined in to focus on two or three key
components. This stripped back approach is in play at Ryan Chetiyawardana’s
White Lyan in Hoxton, which brazenly shuns the use of ice, citrus, sugar and
fruit and champions pre-made cocktails.
7: Americana
The capital has gone bonkers for all things American, with diners
popping up faster than Miley Cyrus can take her clothes off. Late last year saw
the likes of the Soho House group’s Soho Diner in Old Compton Street and
Jackson & Rye on Wardour Street join the party, offering everything from
buttermilk blueberry pancakes, buttermilk-fried chicken, creamed grits and clam
chowder to hard shakes. Expect the trend to continue this year through the
likes of Strip Bar & Steak in Barbican, Avenue in St James’s, Brooklyn Bowl
at the O2 and Big Easy Covent Garden, whose bar will shine a light on Mezcal and Bourbon.
8: Craft beer
Having already exploded in the US, 2014 will be the year when the UK
fully embraces craft beer, driven by the proliferation of small independent
brewers popping up around Britain. With a slew of new craft brewers shaking
things up in the capital, pioneering Meantime is now joined by the likes of the
Camden Town Brewery, which produces 30,000 pints a week, Crate in Hackney Wick,
The Kernel in Bermondsey and Redemption Brewing Company in Tottenham.
Often boasting quirky, eye-catching packaging, these lovingly crafted
brews are bringing beer to a new audience and broadening its appeal. London
restaurants and bars are also doing their bit in flagging up these homegrown
hops, led by the likes of the Craft Beer Company and the Draft House.
9: Pork
We’ve gone clucking mad for chicken and barmy for beef, but the meat on
everyone’s lips in 2014 will be pork. In keeping with the Americana trend,
pulled pork will continue to headline on menus, with pioneering Pitt Cue Coe
inspiring a new legion of restaurant that specialise in smoking, such as the
newly opened Ember Yard (the latest venture in Simon Mullins’ Salt Yard group)
in Soho, where you’ll find hot smoked
old spot pork belly with Basque cider glaze. At Russell Norman’s new gastropub,
The Ape & Bird, pig’s trotter Scotch eggs are already proving a hit, while
the latest addition to The Pig hotel group’s litter, The Pig-near Bath, is due
to open in March, celebrating all things porcine.
Taking the piggy trend to another level is
the recently opened Blackfoot in Exmouth Market, where slow-roasted pork belly with
Szechuan pepper and black treacle, pulled pork tacos, and Vietnamese pot belly
salad all feature. Owners Tom Ward and Allegra McEvedy decided to embark on the
venture due to a joint “emotional attachment” to all things porky. The pair
have cannily plucked head chef James Knight from Copita to steer their piggy
ship, where the squealers come by way of a friendly farm in Suffolk.
10: Hipster wine bars
Wine is having a bit of a moment with London’s hipsters, spurred on by
the opening of Sager + Wilde in Hackney, a no-reservations bar that started
life as a pop-up run by husband and wife duo, Charlotte and Michael
Sager-Wilde. Achingly hip in an unpretentious way, with open brickwork walls,
1920s station lights and a cast iron bar, S&W serves everything from big
gun producers like California’s Ridge to obscure boutique names via Basque
Txakoli and Mosel Riesling, including hard-to-source bottles for a set £20
mark-up.
Also making waves are The Remedy in Fitzrovia, which focuses on natural
wines from Europe served alongside charcuterie and cheese platters, and
Compagnie des Vins Surnaturels in Covent Garden from the team behind the
Experimental Cocktail Club. Passionate about championing the unsung rising
stars of the wine world, CVS is constantly on the hunt for new independent
producers to flag up on its list, which changes on a weekly bases depending on
what’s selling.
We'll see the continued democratisation of wine in London this year through
evens like Wine Car Boot, run by former fashion model Ruth Spivey, and London
Wine Sessions, which are doing their bit in helping to bring wine to a younger,
hipper audience.