Wine and the City

Bottle Apostle to open second site

2012-02-10T00:02:00.000-08:00

Independent wine merchant Bottle Apostle in Victoria Park is to open a second site in North London. Larger than its East London older sibling, the new site in Crouch End, set to open at the end of March, will stock over 500 wines. As reported on thedrinksbusiness.com, the range will be very similar to the original shop, but will feature 50 more reds and 50 more whites. In keeping with Bottle Apostle's try before you buy philosophy, it will also offer 16 wines by the sip from two Enomatics.

“Our other site has four Enomatics, but we’re going to do things a bit differently here, and change the wines on offer almost every day,” owner Andrew Eakin said. “We looked at sites in Primrose Hill, but decided on Crouch End because it’s got a village feel to it. There are other wine shops in the area, but that doesn’t scare us,” Eakin added.

Food will play an important role at the new store – Eakin plans to host two wine-themed supper clubs a week for up to 20 people. “I’ve ordered a huge kitchen, which will live at the back of the shop. We’re already in talks with Nuno Mendez of Viajante and chef collective The Young Turks, who are keen to host supper clubs,” Eakin said.

The shop, which will also stock a range of rare spirits and specialist beers, will be run by Bottle Apostle Victoria Park manager Christopher Sherwood, who is currently is recruiting a new team. Despite finding it hard to find staff for the new venture, Eakin is optimistic about the current state of wine on the UK high street.

“We have the most loyal customers in the world and our sales are up 30% on last year. People are sick of buying bad supermarket wine, but they don’t want to feel looked down on at snooty wine merchants. We’re all about making wine buying simple and fun,” he said. Eakin plans to open a further four sites and turn Bottle Apostle into a small chain, insisting his third site will “definitely” be in West London.

The Beaujolais Boys revisited

2012-02-09T00:02:00.000-08:00

As reported back in June on Wine and the City , a quiet revolution is taking place in Beaujolais. Looking to capitalise on the success of the much-lauded 2009 vintage are a troop of dynamic young winemakers, aged between 25-35, who are re-energising the region with their experimental, forward-thinking approach and determination to make characterful wines with a sense of place. Not only are they poster boys for the region; they’re an exciting sign of things to come. Read on for a profile of 10 young winemakers to watch, originally published on thedrinksbusiness.com.

Charly Thévenet, Age: 28

With his poster-boy good looks, Charly Thévenet (above) would look more at home on a catwalk than in a vineyard, but the 28-year-old couldn’t be more serious about wine. He keeps things simple, producing just one wine – a 100% Gamay from three hectares of 80-year-old vines in Régnié. The resulting Grain & Granite, which is aged for four years in old Burgundian barriques, has already caught the eye of American wine author and importer Kermit Lynch, who has snapped it up for the US market. The son of famous “Gang of Four” Morgon producer Jean-Paul Thévenet, Charly, who worked a harvest with Piedmont producer Luigi Pira before a stint with the late “Pope of natural wine” Marcel Lapierre in Morgon, chose Régnié as his canvas because he believes the terroir-driven cru has tremendous potential, the pink granite soils producing aromatic wines with a mineral core that show a good balance between freshness, solid acidity and structure. “I wanted to do something different and put Régnié on the map,” he says. “It’s an exciting time for Beaujolais. There’s a lot of unity between the younger generation and more of an open door philosophy.”

Richard Rottiers, Age: 34

Curly redhead Richard Rottiers took over 3.15-ha of Moulin-á-Vent vineyards aged between 40 and 80 years old in 2007. Keen to produce wines that reflect its unique terroir, he now owns 4 hectares in the cru village, where he hopes to be certified organic by 2014. Rottiers has chalked up vintages all over the world, including Chablis, California, South Africa, New Zealand, and more locally, Brouilly. His style of winemaking is traditional, with partial use of CO2 and the use of a soft extraction process. After press, wines are transferred into vats and barrels for the malolactic fermentation and aging process: 6 months for the traditional Moulin-á-Vent, 10 months for the Moulin-á-Vent Champ de Cour. Rottiers settled in the region after falling in love there and says that through his relationship with local girl Corinne, he has developed a passion for the land and its history.

Edouard Parinet, Age: 27

Baby-faced Edouard Parinet is in charge of the development of Château du Moulin-à-Vent, the emblematic domain of the Moulin-à-Vent appellation bought by his father in 2009. The estate stretches over 30 hectares of vines in the heart of the cru village and its vineyard plots, including Champ de Cour, La Rochelle and Les Vérillats, boast some of the best terroir in the appellation. Parinet works solely with Gamay, and, thanks to Moulin-à-Vent’s iron-rich soil, the terroir produces Gamay to rival the Pinot Noirs of the Côte de Nuits and Côte de Beaune in neighbouring Burgundy. Parinet aims to express the nuances of Moulin-à-Vent’s terroir through his wines, with Croix des Vérillats, grown on sandy soil with a high exposure to the sun, and Champ de Cour, made on argilous soil, coming from two unique terroir parcels within the granite-dominant region.

Julien Merle, Age: 31

Colin Farrell lookalike Julien Merle is a lone star shining on the periphery of the Beaujolais region. Taking the reins at his family property eight years ago aged 23, he produces small amounts of old vine natural wine from eight hectares in Légny in the south of the region. The charismatic 31-year-old is passionate about promoting the quality of southern Beaujolais: “There’s a lot of snobbery towards the south in the north. They think we’re not up to scratch,” he admits. Merle makes five wines, and is keen to keep production down in order to focus on quality. His top wine, Cuvée Philibert, is made from old vines and aged for eight months in French oak barriques. All the wines in his range display bright fruit, freshness and uplifting acidity, proving that southern Beaujolais can compete with the crus in the quality stakes. Like many of the new generation, Merle is keen to champion natural winemaking – all of his wines are sulphite free. “I want to share the taste of my land through my wines,” he says.

Aurélien Grillet, Age: 25

Acquiring 2 hectares in the Les Charmes climat of Morgon, fresh-faced Aurélien Grillet set up Domaine du Chardon Bleu next to his father’s estate in 2007. Dedicated to organic principles, Grillet ferments grapes from his old vines using naturally occurring yeasts or additives. After a two-week maceration period the wines finish their fermentation in tank and are rested during winter then bottled without filtration, sulphur or additives. The ambitious 25-year-old producers two wines: Les Charmes, made from 55-year-old vines, and his top cuvée, Vieilles Vignes, from 110-year-old vines and low yields of around 10hl/ha, which is aged on fine lees for a year before bottling. Grillet believes there is “no great wine without respect for the land on which the vine thrives, grows and gives its fruit.” He sees it as his duty to preserve the land and keep it alive through sustainable practices.

Paul-Henri Thillardon, Age: 25

Deciding to break away from his father’s cooperative, Paul-Henri Thillardon makes wines in the Burgundian style from six hectares of old vines in Chénas. The enterprising 25-year-old negotiated a deal to rent both the vines and the corresponding winery – a renovated space dating back to the 18th century, from a local doctor, whom he part pays in wine. Having studied winemaking in Hermitage, Thillardon is passionate about making wines of character, which he does through extended maceration. He is currently experimenting with soil types, including pink granite, schist, granitic and alluvium. Thillardon’s range comprises four wines, but he’s experimenting with many more, including an as yet unnamed barrel-fermented Viognier. As with many of the new generation, Thillardon is dedicated to organics and has taken to using horses instead of tractors in the vineyard. He chose to make wine in Chénas as he believes it to be the cru with the brightest future: “Chénas has extraordinary terroir, the region has incredible potential,” he enthuses. “I want to change Beaujolais’ image. I want to show how diverse it can be. I’m proud of my heritage.”

Mathieu Mélinand, Age: 26

Tall, dark and handsome Mathieu Mélinand is chief winemaker at his family's 20-hectare pink granate and sand property Domaine des Marrans in Fleurie, which boasts vines up to 120-years-old. Mélinand is a purist, vinifying each parcel separately for maximum expression. He also macerates his wines for up to three weeks for higher concentration. Although the domaine is a Fleurie specialist, with vineyards covering 10 hectares in different climats, it also produces a Morgon, Juliénas, Beaujolais-Villages from the steep slopes of Jullié, Chiroubles from a slope named Les Côtes and a Beaujolais from the south of the region near Saint Jean d’Ardières. Each wine is matured on fine lees then bottled at the domaine for six to ten months.

Cyril Picard, Age: 35

Angelic-looking Cyril Picard manages his family estate, Château de Cercy, in Denicé. Having been in the hands of the Picard family since 1908, the 35-year-old is on a mission to prove that Gamay need not equal wimpy wines by producing gutsy, structured, barrel-aged, old vine reds from his 33-hectare estate taking in Brouilly and Moulin-à-Vent, where the average vine age is 80-100 years old. Picard, who started winemaking aged just 22, is also proving his mettle in the white wine arena with a pair of oak-aged Chardonnays. While all the wines in his extensive range are unique, they have a signature style: big, bold and well structured, with bright black fruit and a savoury core. Picard, who has worked stints in Germany, the Côte Rôtie, Condrieu and Saint-Joseph, admits making wines with big personality from Gamay can be tough: “It’s a thousand times more difficult to make great Gamay in Beaujolais than great Syrah in Saint-Joseph.” In this vein, he wants to limit production in order to focus on quality. His top wine, the 14.75% Moulin-à-Vent “Premium” is produced in miniscule amounts – just 780 bottles last year, which are all numbered and signed.

Fabien Chasselay, Age: 27

With three years as chief winemaker at his family property, Domaine Chasselay, under his belt, wine alchemist Fabien Chasselay has begun to experiment with a variety of styles, making everything from a nutty white Beaujolais to an 8% abv sparkling Gamay and a 100% Pinot Noir, while his barrel-aged Morgon and Fleurie have been taken on by online organic wine pioneers Vintage Roots. Having worked stints in Rutherglen, Australia, and Châteauneuf-du-Pape, the daring young winemaker’s latest trick is a sweet wine made from Cognac and partially fermented grape must named La Mistelle d’Améthyste after Bacchus’ girlfriend. “I like to keep challenging myself," he says. “A lot of my wines are purely experimental. When I get bored, I invent a new wine.” At the domaine, where he makes wine from organically certified grapes with his sister Claire, weedkillers have been replaced with infusions of lavender, horsetail, seaweed and nettle. Despite having a 15-strong range, production remains small at just 5,000 cases a year from 11 hectares across Morgon, Fleurie, Brouilly and Chénas.

Julien Sunier, Age: 35

The exuberant Julien Sunier set up his winery high in the hills of Avénas in 2008, producing Fleurie (1.10 hec), Régnié (1.1 hec) and Morgon (0.8 hec) from old vines. The vineyards are farmed organically and Sunier adopts a natural approach to winemaking using minimal intervention and very little sulphur during bottling. Grapes are fermented in concrete vats in whole bunches using indigenous yeasts. The resulting juice is then aged in both tank and barrel for the Régnié and just barrel for the Fleurie and Morgon. The green-minded winemaker is passionate about terroir and believes wines should be made for instant enjoyment rather than for laying down for decades. As well as wine, Sunier also produces saucisson and is converting his farmhouse into a B&B, which he hopes to open next year.

Cadogan launches £25,000 Champagne bath

2012-02-08T00:02:00.000-08:00

Knightsbridge hotel the Cadogan has launched a Champagne bath menu in time for Valentine’s Day, and is offering a Dom Pérignon 2002 bath for £25,000. As reported on thedrinksbusiness.com, the 122-bottle Champagne bath starts at £4,000 for a soak in Louis de Custine Brut 1998. Available to hotel guests from 14 February, and running for a year, while the bath is drawn, an optional “bath butler” will be on hand to pour the submerged guest a one of six complimentary bottles offered with the service, and serve chocolate covered strawberries.

Along with Dom Pérignon and Louis de Custine Brut, customers can choose from the Perrier-Jouët Grand Brut 2002 bath for £6,000, the Perrier-Jouët Blason Rosé 2004 bath for £8,000, or the Veuve Clicquot Brut Yellow Label 2006 bath for £8,000. “We’ve had surprising amounts of interest in the baths already,” the Cadogan’s sales and marketing director Lee Jones said. “Most of the interest has been at the top end. We’ve already had one guest pay the deposit for the Dom Pérignon bath,” Jones added.

The service, which can also be booked by external customers, was devised by recently-appointed general manager Will Oakley as the “ultimate indulgence” to mark the five star hotel’s 125th anniversary. Shortly after opening in 1887, the hotel served as the setting for actress Lillie Langtry’s courting of the future King Edward VII. Oscar Wilde was also famously arrested in room 118 in 1895.

Jackson Family Wines acquires Clarendon

2012-02-07T00:02:00.000-08:00

Jackson Family Wines has bought the revered Clarendon vineyard in McLaren Vale – the source some of Australia’s finest Shiraz, Grenache and Cabernet Sauvignon. As reported in the drinks business, although no purchase price was announced, industry sources estimate it was sold for more than US$10m. “It says something that an iconic American wine company wants to have a stake in Australia and in the Clarendon Hills,” said David Hickinbotham, who managed the family vineyard. California-based Jackson Family Wines is keen to add more high-end estates to its portfolio and is eyeing up opportunities in South Africa.

The sale of the 180-hectare estate, which has grown grapes for wines including Penfolds Grange, Eileen Hardy and Clarendon Hills, comprises 84 planted acres on rolling hillsides, and two homes. The Hickinbotham family put the site up for sale in 2010 after the death of Alan Hickinbotham, David’s father, who bought the estate several decades ago and greatly expanded the plantings. “We had six offers and we all agreed that this was the best fit,” Hickinbotham said.

Clarendon Hills proprietor Roman Bratasiuk, who labeled single-vineyard Shiraz, Grenache and Cabernet Sauvignon bottlings as Hickinbotham Vineyard, will continue to have rights to the same portions of the vineyard under terms of the sale to Jackson. “They didn’t have to do that,” Hickinbotham noted, “but they agreed to honor what was a handshake agreement for the past 15 years.”

One of the first vineyards planted at elevation in South Australia, Clarendon was established in 1858 and has vines dating back to 1923. The estate includes an 8,000-square-foot stone mansion and an earth sheltered house built into a hillside, designed by celebrated German architect Gerhard Schurer in 1981. Jackson plans to convert both buildings into hospitality houses for guests.

Katie Jackson, daughter of the company’s late founder Jess Jackson, and current chairwoman Barbara Banke, will be responsible for the Clarendon property. “We see more interest in Australian wines, especially at the top end,” Jackson said. “My father taught me that it’s all about the vineyard, and this was a great opportunity to add a special one. I know how beautiful the area is, and how great the wines can be. I have high hopes,” she added.

LVMH profit boosted by wine and spirits

2012-02-06T00:02:00.000-08:00

The world's largest luxury goods group, LVMH, reported a 1% rise in 2011 net profit this week, as the company continues to show strong growth in its wine and spirits division, despite economic uncertainty in Europe. As reported on the drinks business, the group’s net profit topped €3 billion as sales jumped 16% last year, driven mainly by spending in Asia. "I'm going to be a bit repetitive because 2011 was an excellent year like 2010, and like I hope 2012 will be," said chief executive Bernard Arnault.

"After an exceptional 2011, LVMH is well-equipped to continue its growth momentum across all divisions in 2012. Its strategy will remain focused on developing brands through strong innovation, quality and expansion in high potential markets," he added. The French group’s portfolio includes Champagne brands Dom Pérignon, Krug, Veuve Clicquot and Moët & Chandon, Château d’Yquem in Sauternes, and Château Cheval Blanc in St Emilion. It also owns Glenmorangie and Ardbeg whiskies, and Belvedere vodka.

LVMH's robust performance sets high expectations for the luxury goods industry. "It's somewhat of a paradox to say that 2011 was a year of global prosperity, but we are lucky to export most of our products," Arnault said. The company’s latest figures show that the European debt crisis hasn't triggered a slowdown in the US. In the fourth quarter, sales in Europe rose 3%, but the strongest growth came from the US and Asia, excluding Japan.

Arnault doesn't see an end to LVMH's good fortune. "Barring a major accident and despite the difficulties in Europe, the world economy is growing and the world wants more and more of our products," he said. The company’s fashion division, which includes brands such as Louis Vuitton, Bulgari and Dior, also showed strong growth.

Wine of the Week: Ornellaia 2008

2012-02-05T00:02:00.000-08:00

Welcome to a new section of Wine and the City – Wine of the Week, where each week I will taste and rate a different wine from around the world. While I’ll endeavour to make the majority affordable and accessible, I’m starting the section on a high note with a very special wine, Ornellaia Bolgheri Superiore 2008.

One of the three so-called “Super Tuscans”, along with Sassicaia and Solaia, it’s easy to forget the estate of Tenuta dell’Ornellaia was founded a mere 31 years ago in 1981 by Lodovico Antinori, who chose an unspoilt patch in the hills near the medieval hamlet of Bolgheri, set in a triangle formed by the Tyrrhenian Sea, Bolgheri and the town of Castagneto Carducci. The ambition was to create fine wines to rival the best in the world. Since establishing the estate, Lodovico has passed the baton on to current owner, the Marchesi de Frescobaldi.

Ornellaia Bolgheri Superiore is the estate’s flagship wine, produced since 1985 from select, hand picked parcels across the estate’s 97 hectares of limestone-rich calcerous soils. Made from a blend of 54% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Merlot, 16% Cabernet Franc and a 3% dash of Petit Verdot, while showing beautifully now, the 2008 vintage is one for lying down. The 2008 growing season was marked by a wet spring, which lead to low yields of high concentration. The summer was hot, but temperatures cooled at night, allowing for the development of colour, aromatics and phenolic ripeness in the Cabernet Sauvignon, resulting in a bold, structured wine built for ageing.

Crafted by German winemaker Axel Heinz, after the grapes are gently crushed, the wine is fermented in French oak barrels (70% new) then aged in small barriques for 18 months, followed by a year of bottle ageing. An intense deep purple, the nose is full of ripe blackberries and black cherries alongside tobacco, balsamic and herbal notes, and hints of dark chocolate, mocha, tar and spices. The Cabernet dominant palate is dense, concentrated, textured and giving. Fleshy, soft and opulent, with a sweetness to the fruit, it’s a Rubens of a wine, with velvety, fine-grained tannins and a lightening bolt of minerality running through it. Firm yet racy, with a liquorice finish and incredible length, it’s a clever balance of power and elegance made very much in the international style, which will go on happily for 20 years.

Wine and the City rating: 18/20.

Ornellaia Bolgheri Superiore 2008 is available from Berry Bros & Rudd, Harper Wells and The Wine Society for £100-120 a bottle.

Rolland collaborates on charity wine

2012-02-04T10:08:00.000-08:00

Bordeaux go-to consultant Michel Rolland has partnered with international charity Wine to Water on a South African wine that will help provide thousands of Ethiopians access to clean water. As reported on the drinks business, Bonne Nouvelle 2003, a Cabernet, Merlot and Pinotage blend from Stellenbosch, means "good news" in French.

US$20 from every bottle sold will go directly to Wine To Water to dig deep bore wells in the Dale region of Southern Ethiopia, where 6 out of 10 people lack access to clean water. The project's initial goal is to raise US$40,000 – enough to fund four wells, providing permanent water access for over 8,000 people. Ethiopia is currently battling a water crisis, with millions struggling to survive every day due to drought and contaminated water.

California winery and importer Montesquieu Wines is facilitating the project by distributing the wine in the US at no charge. Owner Fonda Hopkins, who works separately with Michel Rolland and Wine to Water founder Doc Hendley on other projects, brought the pair together. "Michel and Doc come from very different backgrounds, but both are so passionate about life and committed to excellence that the partnership was a natural fit,” she said.

“It's wonderful to see some of the top players in the wine community step up to the plate to make a difference,” said Hendley, whose charity has provided water to over 100,000 people in twelve countries, including Sudan, India, Cambodia, Uganda and Kenya. Hendley is currently touring the States promoting his book Wine to Water: A Bartender's Quest to Bring Clean Water to the World, published by Penguin.

Michel Rolland is one of the most influential winemakers in the world. He consults for over 100 properties, including Angélus and Ausone in Bordeaux, Ornellaia in Tuscany and Harlan Estate in California. Bonne Nouvelle is available at www.winetowaterstore.com for US$39.

Richard Geoffroy, Dom Pérignon

2012-02-03T00:02:00.000-08:00

Wine and the City talks to Richard Geoffroy, chef de cave of Dom Pérignon, at the DP 2003 launch in London, about Dom Pérignon and food matching, the myth that acidity in wine is linked to ageing, the forthcoming Rosé 2002 launch, and why the Champagne flute is dead.

Negotiating the wine list at Angelus

2012-02-02T07:10:00.001-08:00

Ordering a bottle of wine from a Bible-thick list can turn the coolest of customers into a quivering wreck. But help is at hand in the form of Thierry Tomasin, the ebullient, irreverent and unmistakably French owner of Angelus restaurant, a hidden jewel in a quiet corner of Lancaster Gate next to Hyde Park Stables. With 12 years as head sommelier at two Michelin-starred Le Gavroche under his belt, followed by a stint at Gordon Ramsay's Aubergine in Kensington, Tomasin is well versed in the language of wine.

Feeling charitable, he's decided to impart his pearls of wisdom on uninitiated ears, and is offering a masterclass on the complex art of negotiating a wine list at Angelus next Tuesday – a week ahead of Valentine’s Day. A fortnight ago, I was invited to be one of Tomasin's guinea pigs in a practice run before the main event. The evening began in a suitably civilised fashion with a glass of house Champagne Angelium – a tart 100% Pinot Noir, in the gunmetal grey drawing room festooned with inviting velvet chaise longues and bookcases lined with empty trophy bottles of Cheval Blanc and Chapoutier.

Moving downstairs to the chandelier-lit dining room in the cellars, Tomasin, dressed in a purple shirt and silver tie, launches into an impassioned monologue: "So many people are intimidated by wine, especially when they're presented with a list the size of an encyclopedia. But wine should be fun. That's what it's all about,” he insists. Presented with our starter – sashimi-like strips of marinated salmon with triangles of grapefruit and tangerine amid a crème fraìche and caviar garden, and an accompanying glass of aromatic, white flower and peach-filled Domaine Coste Viognier Grenache 2010, Tomasin stresses the importance of doing your homework by calling ahead or looking at the restaurant’s wine list online, so it already looks familiar when the sommelier thrusts the heaving tome into your sweaty palms.

As the nuggets of truth flow freely from Tomasin's lips, it all begins to feel very School for Scoundrels, with Thierry playing a French version of gap-toothed cad about town Terry Thomas. "Follow these simple rules gentleman, and you're guaranteed not to go home empty handed: engage the sommelier, but don't get too deep into conversation. Create a relationship but don't go too far," - quite. As the well rehearsed raconteur continues, our main appears: perfectly pink slices of Gressingham duck breast with garlic potato puree and Bayonne ham wrapped around lithe green beans. To match is a glass of the indecently affordable and delicious Château Civrac 2007 from the Côtes de Bourg.

Seduction school resumes with Tomasin describing sommeliers as "salesmen of pleasure" and suggesting that you can tell a lot about a woman's taste in wine by her taste in coffee. "Double espresso girls are likely to enjoy gutsy reds, while latte ladies would probably prefer a light white,” he offers. Debunking the myth that perfect food and wine matches exist, he calls for creativity – Sherry and soup anyone? Tomasin's approach to food pairing is unashamedly relaxed. He's a firm believer in picking a wine to suit your mood, rather than rigidly trying to marry the flavours on your plate with the aromas in your glass. To finish, Angelium NV makes a welcome reappearance, and is served with an achingly pretty rhubarb millefeuille, its lightly seared top recalling bonfire-toasted marshmallows.

As the petit fours do the rounds, Thierry tells us, rather excitedly, about his secret "love dictionary" – a guest book filled with musings from oft intoxicated diners. One of the entries from a female admirer involves melted chocolate and a desire to spread it. Moving swiftly on, he reminisces, almost wistfully, about his Le Gavroche days, and serving the Queen double G&Ts in the private dining room upstairs. “Her handbag was microscopic – barely big enough for a lipstick,” he quips. If you want the Madonna anecdote, you'll have to book a spot at the dinner. Places are priced at £75 per person, which includes three courses and wines chosen by the scoundrel himself.

Zahra Bar

2012-02-01T00:02:00.000-08:00

Clapham Old Town has an exciting new addition. Bringing a Moorish twist to SW4 is Zahra Bar, which has just opened its ornate doors in the basement of newcomer restaurant Del' Aziz on The Pavement – a road seemingly named by Adele. Set across two floors, the ground-level bar is flatteringly lit with stained-glass lanterns, which prettify the giant bronze tables that could double as satellite dishes.

Low slung copper light fixtures hang nonchalantly, illuminating the gold thread on the silk cushioned sofas. Gazing up, I'm greeted by a playful dance floor of a ceiling, scattered with luminous pink and orange oblongs. The 30+ cocktail list is divided into the usual suspects: Martinis, Long Drinks, Shorts and Fizz. I opt for the signature Zahra cocktail (£7.50), a mixture of Pampeo rum, pineapple, spices, lime, egg white, and a cheeky dribble of absinthe. Expecting something sickeningly sweet, it delivers an ice-cold, deliciously thirst-quenching drop, with an impish liquorice finish.

Moving to the main bar downstairs, the lighting is as low as the ceiling and the music as loud as the Middle Eastern mosaic wallpaper. Brick red stools line the bar, expectantly waiting bottoms. The stained-glass lanterns make a welcome reappearance, and a belly dancer weaves her way, serpent-like, through the crowd. The place has the feel of a clandestine vice den in Beirut, where the cool kids come to feed their bad habits. Thirsty for a second libation, I opt for an Aviation (£8), made with calvados, cassis, lime and absinthe. Having already been charmed by the green fairy, she works her magic a second time, proving a delightful addition to the satisfyingly sharp, raspberry pink drink.

In keeping with the Moorish theme, my harem and I sample a selection of the mezze on offer, from salty slabs of halloumi and cooling tzatziki to creamy houmous bejeweled with ruby red pomegranate seeds. For the optimum opium den experience, you can choose from an array of forbidden fruits, including cherry, strawberry and watermelon, on the Shisha menu. Though due to the smoking ban, the hookah pipes won't be able to be puffed on until spring. Perusing the wine list, I'm impressed to see both Lebanon and Morroco in the line-up, but the cocktails are of such a high calibre, this lady's not for turning. It may be freezing outside, but Clapham's new jewel is burning bright.

The key to luxury branding? Saying "no"

2012-01-31T00:02:00.000-08:00

Luxury drinks brands need to learn to say “no” more in order to succeed in today’s tough retail climate, according to one of the UK’s leading brand strategists. As reported in the drinks business, Peter Cross (pictured), brand strategist at retail marketing agency Yellowdoor said: “Luxury is about saying “no”. It’s about maintaining exclusivity and scarcity. Brands who are brazen enough to take the high ground will be able to separate themselves from their competitors."

Speaking at the G.H. Mumm and Perrier-Jouët Champagne Assembly at the St Pancras Renaissance Hotel on Friday, Cross warned of the dangers of being too keen to please. “Last year, the luxury industry said yes a lot – to new markets, new categories and regional thinking – it bent over backwards to allow consumers to have it their way. But people want something even more when they can’t have it,” he said.

Cross stressed however, that retaining exclusivity is not enough. You have to have integrity, values, a story to tell, and a clearly defined place in the market,” he said, citing the economic crisis and the digital revolution as having changed the way we shop. “Luxury items have shifted from being out of reach to being accessible, and we expect brands to filter into our everyday lives. With consumer knowledge up and blogs and Twitter taken more seriously, today’s shoppers are empowered,” he warned.

Cross ended his speech by speaking of the extraordinary power of goodwill gestures. “Small gifts, like extra laces with a pair of Churches shoes, can make all the difference and inspire brand loyalty. Understanding the subtleties of selling is crucial,” he said. Meanwhile, Pierre Aymeric du Cray, global sales director of G.H. Mumm and Perrier-Jouët, spoke of moving beyond the “bling” era in Champagne.

“Consumers are less inclined to buy luxury brands as status symbols to show off with, and are instead looking for genuine brand values,” he said. “Today’s consumers want a sense of timelessness in the luxury goods they buy – something they can pass on to the next generation,” he added, citing personal customer relationships as key to success in 2012. “Consumers are looking for a sense of belonging, to feel part of the brands’ family. 2012 will be all about craftsmanship,” he said.

Sir Terence Conran: My Passion for Wine

2012-01-30T00:02:00.000-08:00

Wine and the City spends an afternoon with the indefatigable author, designer and restaurateur behind the Habitat furniture chain and London restaurants Bluebird and Boundary, to chat about drinking Cahors with Nancy Cunard in the '50s, smoking Cuban cigars with David Hockney, and a road trip to Burgundy in Bill Baker's Land Rover.

When did your interest in wine begin?

I got into wine while working as a designer for John Harvey & Sons in Bristol – a breeding ground for some of the most influential people in the wine trade: Michael Broadbent, Harry Waugh – you name it. It was the most wonderful induction to the world of fine wine.

How did you develop your newfound passion?

I started drinking quality wine and began to understand the differences between vintages, châteaux and regions. I decided red and white Burgundy were my passions – they have an indefinable decadence about them. I was born in 1931, which was a terrible year for Bordeaux. As a result I’ve been given some disastrous presents. Michael Broadbent gave me a bottle of 1931 Haut-Brion, which was undrinkable vinegar. Luckily, it was a good year for Port.

Are you a Bordeaux or a Burgundy man?

As I get older, I understand the subtlety of wine more. I find Burgundy more French than Bordeaux. Bordeaux has been Americanised and is very concerned with money. Burgundy is more intellectual than Bordeaux. Old Burgundy has such fantastic, complex flavours. I’ve got two cellars under my house in Berkshire, one for white wine and one for red. They’re the perfect temperature and humidity for both wine and cigars.

I’ve heard you’re partial to the odd cigar…

Cigars are another passion – I smoke three Hoyo de Monterrey Epicure No2s a day. I often drink Chilean wine as I find it robust, full of flavour and well priced. I object to paying £500 for a bottle of wine. Being a war child I am still obsessed with value for money. I’ve tried Pétrus on very few occasions. It’s a beautiful wine, but I can’t drink it in a relaxed way.

Who do you like to share your prized bottles with?

My dear friend Bill Baker, who died three years ago, was the best person to drink wine with. I shared a huge number of bottles with him over the years, and bought most of my wine from him at Reid Wines – he was incredibly knowledgeable. He would drive me around Burgundy in his huge Land Rover, loading case after case at every vineyard we stopped off at. When I went on Eurostar with him, he’d bring a big basket full of wine, which we’d crack open during the journey.

Do you see wine as an investment or something to enjoy?

Both. I’m not an investor in wine, but I like the idea of it. If you’re going to invest in anything, then wine and art are the best things to spend your money on because you can enjoy your investment. I collect a lot of art. I buy my contemporaries – Hodgkin and Hockney. Hockney is a big wine lover – I’ve drunk vast quantities of wine and smoked many cigars with him. On a trip to Southern France in the early ’50s I went to stay in a converted barn belonging to English socialite and heiress Nancy Cunard (pictured), who counted Aldous Huxley and TS Eliot among her lovers. We drank Cahors late into the night until our teeth went black.

Article originally published in Decanter magazine

Battle of Bosworth

2012-01-29T13:52:00.000-08:00

Wine and the City talks to Louise Hemsley-Smith, co-owner of Battle of Bosworth winery in the McLaren Vale, Australia, at Quo Vadis in Soho, about the reasoning behind the historic name, the benefits of single site wine, sulphur-free Shiraz, and natural wine bohemians.

Single vineyard Rioja enters the spotlight

2012-01-27T07:00:00.000-08:00

Single vineyard Rioja is coming into the international spotlight, helped in the past few years by perfect or near-perfect Parker scores. Rioja Alavesa-based Artadi and Alta-based Finca Allende are at the cutting edge of the single vineyard movement with El Pison and Calvario, Simon Field MW of Berry Bros & Rudd told the drinks business. “The single vineyard movement is a very positive thing for Rioja, but it requires experimentation and the volumes are so tiny that a lot of them stay within the domestic market,” he said.

Working on a new single vineyard project in Rioja Baja is Spanish wine pioneer Alvaro Palacios, who is back at his family’s 100-hectare estate in the town of Alfaro. Believing Baja boasts the perfect terroir for old vine Garnacha, he has steadily increased the percentage of Garnacha in his blends each year, with the ultimate goal of making a single vineyard Garnacha from his 3-hectare Valmira vineyard, which he aims to release in the next few years.

Since returning to Rioja, Palacios has noticed positive a shift towards regional thinking. “People are starting to realise that the three sub regions have very different personalities, like the Left Bank and Right Bank in Bordeaux,” he said. He sees the single vineyard trend as not only exciting, but crucial for Rioja’s future. “We need to take more of a regional approach in Rioja and start putting both the sub regions and the names of the individual villages on our labels like they do in France – it’s the only language of fine wine, but the Consejo won’t allow it."

Another spearhead of the single vineyard movement is David Sampedro, who makes a super-premium red and white from his limestone-rich, 1.3-hectare El Brozal plot dating back to Roman times in the town of El Villar, producing a mere 1,000 six-bottle cases a year, the majority of which is exported to the US. Like Palacios, he wants to see winemakers putting village names on their labels. “I’ve had problems with the Consejo for putting the single vineyard name on my labels, but Rioja desperately needs to communicate this terroir concept,” he urged.

Sampedro hope to see more single vineyard Riojas emerge in the near future. “It would lead to a better consumer understanding of Rioja’s terroir concept, but as a winemaker you need to be able to make money in other ways to stay afloat,” he admitted. El Pison, which Sampedro considers to be Spain’s top wine, is made from grapes grown in a high altitude, southeast facing, amphitheatre-shaped, 2.5-hectare old vine clos a mile from Laguardia in Rioja Alavesa. The brainchild of Juan Carlos Lopez de Lacaille of Artadi, the 2004 vintage received 100 points from The Wine Advocate, and sells for £300 a bottle.

d'Arenberg "Dadd" sparkling wine released

2012-01-26T00:02:00.000-08:00

McLaren Vale producer d’Arenberg has released a limited edition sparkling wine called Dadd. As reported on thedrinksbusiness.com, the label carries the signature d’Arenberg red sash, which bears a striking resemblance to a Champagne house with a similarly familial name.

Chief winemaker Chester Osborn revealed the project has been one hundred years in the making. “Four generations of dads have culminated in this celebratory project. It has taken us a century to produce a high end sparkling wine from high altitude vineyards in the Adelaide Hills – the highest altitude in fact,” he said.

The non-vintage sparkler is a blend of 52% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Noir and 8% Pinot Meunier. As to the wine’s reception in the UK, Osborn is confident it will be welcomed with good humour. “I’m really excited about it. We wanted to call it Dadd with a double ‘d’ because there are so many of us involved with the project”, he said.

In defense of the provocative label, he said: “The Dadd label features the red sash because all of our wines have it – it’s been with us for sixty years.” 2012 marks the 100th anniversary of the family-owned winery.

Tamra Washington, Yealands Estate

2012-01-25T00:02:00.000-08:00

Wine and the City talks to Tamra Washington, chief winemaker of Yealands Estate in the Awatere Valley in Marlborough, New Zealand, at The Modern Pantry, about the trend for single vineyard wines in NZ, single block Pinot Noirs, the Gruner Veltliner buzz in Marlborough, and why now is an exciting time for New Zealand wine.

Natural wines are "not for the masses"

2012-01-24T02:32:00.000-08:00

One of the UK’s top natural wine importers has spoken out about the natural wine movement, comparing it to the works of Karl Marx. “Natural wines require a critical approach. They’re a bit like the works of Karl Marx; not intended for the masses,” Giuseppe Mascoli (pictured) of Aubert & Mascoli told the drinks business. “Marx was writing for a specific audience with a sufficient level of knowledge to understand and appreciate his work. The same can be said for natural wines,” he added.

Mascoli, who represents over 35 Italian and French natural winemakers in the UK, said industrial wines are like “cartoon characters” made to please children. “People are trying to shortcut millions of years of history by manipulating wines with selected yeasts. I’d rather a wine have oddities than be tailor-made,” he said.

Meanwhile, Mascoli’s business partner, Guillaume Aubert, called natural wine “a silent assassin.” “The more you drink, the less you can drink other wines. You start reacting badly to them, coming out in rashes and swelling up from all the sulphites,” he said. Aubert admits he is attracted to the libertarian element of the natural wine movement. “I like the idea of questioning the status quo. It’s very left wing,” he said.

He believes it has gathered momentum so quickly in London because the city is more prone to the effects of trends than the rest of Europe. “Natural wines have come into fashion due to the rise of the critical drinker. Consumers want to know the origin of everything they eat and drink. There’s more awareness now,” he said.

Mascoli concedes that natural doesn’t necessarily mean good. “There are a lot of really bad natural wines out there. The wines are so delicate, it’s easy to screw them up. That’s the big irony with natural wine. It’s supposed to be all about letting the terroir talk, but make a mistake and it could taste like it was made anywhere in the world.”

Having submitted a work to last year’s Venice Biennale, does Mascoli see parallels with wine and art? “On the contrary. I see wine as the opposite of art. God, the artist and the poet create out of nothing. The winemaker works with what is already in existence, acting as a pimp for nature, from the fruit he picks to the soil he respects,” he said, adding, “The winemaker is a shaman. He doesn’t create, he cures.”

Croatian wine to crack global market

2012-01-23T01:16:00.000-08:00

Croatian wine has “risen phoenix-like from the ashes” and is set to make a big impact on the international wine market, according to one of the country’s top producers. “The quality of Croatian wine has improved dramatically over the past few years and we’re witnessing the rebirth of the country’s wine tradition at the moment,” Mladen Rozanic of Istria-based winery Roxanich told the drinks business.

“We’ve got a big wine culture that people don’t know about, but they’re starting to catch on,” Rozanic added, predicting a bright future for Croatian wine in the international market. Croatian wines have something different to offer. They’ve got an attractive Mediterranean character,” he said, citing white variety Malvazija Istarska, Borgonja – a descendent of Gamay brought to Croatia by Napoleonic soldiers in the early 19th century, and red grape Teran as the top three indigenous varieties of Istria to watch.

With around 33,000 hectares under vine, Croatia plans to crack the global export market when it enters the European Union next year. It currently exports only 5% of its annual production of 60m litres. Releasing his first commercial vintage in 2008, Rozanic is enjoying experimenting with different grape varieties. His Ines in White 2008 is a blend of seven different white grapes: Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, Pinot Blanc, Vermentino, Prosecco and Tocai Friulano.

“I planted test rows of each of the seven varieties just to see how they performed in our terroir. Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc have adapted best to the climate and soil,” he revealed. Rozanic is passionate about ageing his wines for as long as possible in barrel before releasing them onto the market. His whites are aged for three years in 3-year-old French oak, and his reds four years. “Ideally, I’d like to age my reds for seven years before releasing them onto the market – five years in barrel and two in bottle,” he said.

Passionate about small-scale production, all of Rozanic’s wines are made naturally, with only a small amount of sulphites added. “I like the purity and honesty of natural wines. Wine is one of the oldest traditions of human civilization and it deserves respectful treatment,” he said, adding, “I believe in letting the terroir speak, but I also like to see a winemaker’s signature in his wines. I like to be present in my wines.”

Dinner by Heston Blumenthal

2012-01-22T00:02:00.000-08:00

When the hotly anticipated Dinner by Heston Blumenthal opened its doors at the Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park to the public a year ago, London's broadsheet food critics united in an unprecedented outpouring of praise. So well oiled was the Blumenthal PR machine, it had everyone from Gill to Maschler to Rayner to Coren gushing obsequiously, with Coren hailing it "the best new restaurant in the world." A year on and a Michelin star to its name, the hype has died down to polite applause, and what remains is an impressive hotel restaurant that rises above the confines of its surroundings and offers a theatrical, and more importantly, delicious dining experience.

In a bid to connect us with our culinary past, Blumenthal has delved into Britain's edible history via cookbooks of yore to revive old recipes, from the quirky to the strange – Rice and Flesh anyone? Dated c.1390, and taken from the oldest known cookery manual in the English language: The Forme of Cury The Master Cooks of King Richard II, the sunshine yellow dish is a lot friendlier than it sounds, consisting of a saffron risotto dotted with shreds of calf tail. Each dish is dated and referenced in a bibliography on the menu for gastro geeks to fawn over. King of the kitchen is executive chef Ashley Palmer-Watts, who's been under Heston's wing at the Fat Duck for a decade.

The light and distinctly modern space designed by Adam Tihany, who has previously put his stamp on Apsleys at The Lanesborough, Per Se in New York and the hotel's sister restaurant Bar Boulud, features floor-to-ceiling glass windows looking out onto the oft horse-filled Hyde Park. The kitchen is dominated by a pulley system that mirrors the insides of a giant watch, serving to rotate a spit on an open-fire lined with impaled pineapples. Clutching the ivory walls are antique jelly moulds that glow erotically, while the bar displays recipes from 16th century cookbooks, which appear and disappear depending on the light. Brown wall panels resemble unwrapped chocolate bars, while swirly art deco light fittings add elegance to the austere interiors.

No trip to Dinner is complete without sampling signature dish Meat Fruit. Having enjoyed the clever creation vicariously in numerous nuanced reviews, I'd been dreaming of and drooling over it for a year. Never in my adult life have I so lusted after something edible. I'd ask friends to recount their experience of the enrobed meat globe in minute detail, conjuring the flavours in my mind. A lucky win at a Halloween quiz (the prize being a meal at a restaurant of our choosing) and here I was sitting down to lunch at Dinner, mere moments away from my own mandarin. Before the waitress can even take our order I request it, the urgency of the situation heightened by its impending resolution. She asks whether I'd like to share it. "No", I reply emphatically. Such a longed for experience could not be tarnished by prying knives.

Ten minutes later and it’s in front of me, as beautiful as I'd imagined it. Masquerading as a mandarin, its faintly dimpled orange skin glistens expectantly in the light. My mouth begins to water. Not wanting to spoil its almost Platonic form, I have to force myself to cut into its skin, which reveals a dusky pink, creamy interior of chicken liver parfait. Grabbing a piece of the accompanying grilled bread, I slather on a generous scoop and take my first mouthful, rewarded at first with the refreshing tang of the mandarin jelly, and soon after the luxurious, rich, heavenly parfait. Playful, indulgent and utterly delicious, it's the closest Dinner gets to a Fat Duck trompe l'oeil trick.

Having soared to such celestial heights so early on, the rest of the dishes were bound to feel more mundane, and on reflection, I wish I'd ordered two more starters rather than a main, though my spiced pigeon with artichokes in ale (c.1780) arrives perfectly pink and, having been cooked sous vide, is tremendously tender and with pleasingly crispy skin, but served slightly cold. In fairness, few dishes could have successfully followed Meat Fruit's lead, but having got so used to London's small plates philosophy, Dinner's starters seem to bring more joy and beauty than its meaty mains; both the roast scallops with cucumber ketchup and the roast bone marrow delighting my fellow dining companions in appearance and taste.

Be sure to bypass the side order of fries and ask politely instead for the triple cooked chips, which usually only accompany the Hereford Ribeye steak. A fistful of golden shards that glint like jagged yellow diamonds; their jackets are impossibly crunchy and interiors warm and fluffy. Wine doesn't come cheap – bottles start at £35 and quickly escalate skywards. On our visit we begin with a bottle of the house Champagne – Moët & Chandon 2002, which shows off the elegance and complexity of the vintage, moving on to a Northern and Southern Rhône comparative tasting of Domaine George Vernay Terres d'Encorse Saint-Joseph 2008 and Les Racine Les Pallières Gigondas 2007. The former is prettily perfumed, with attractive savoury notes and a refreshing mineral core, while the latter displays a distinctly raisined character of dried fruits and Christmas cake.

The wine highlight however, is a bottle of Vincent Girardin Vielles Vignes Puligny-Montrachet 2008. Assembled from parcels with vine ages averaging half a century and having been vinified in a good proportion of new oak, the liquid gold has an unmistakably Burgundian nose of honeysuckle, lily, peaches and cream wrapped around a mineral core. The flavours dance across the palate, enhanced by mouth puckering acidity. Puddings are exquisitely executed. The painfully pretty Taffety Tart (c.1660) comprises paper-thin layers of pastry housing canon balls of fromage blanc, pressed apple doused in rose water, a sprinking of fennel seeds and a teardrop-shaped scoop of intensely flavoured blackcurrant sorbet.

Resurrecting the wow factor of Meat Fruit is Brown Bread Ice Cream (c.1830) decked out in a pinstripe suit of moreish salted caramel and malted yeast syrup. A strange and satisfying marriage of sweet and savoury, the Hovis-like yeast kick of the bread is quickly assuaged by the sweetness of the caramel and the crunchy toffee biscuit base below. Part history lesson, part edible theatre, while much of Heston's culinary alchemy has been tamed; elements of the Blumenthal magic remain. And for those who can merely dream of a meal at the Fat Duck, lunch at Dinner is the next best thing. Just make sure you order the Meat Fruit.

Dinner by Heston Blumenthal, Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park, 66 Knightsbridge, London SW1X 7LA; Tel: +44(0)20 7201 3833. A meal for two with wine and service costs around £200.

World's hottest chilli vodka launched

2012-01-21T00:02:00.000-08:00

Online drinks retailer Master of Malt has launched what it claims to be the world’s hottest chilli vodka, as reported on thedrinksbusiness.com. Made by infusing vodka with Naga Jolokia – the hottest chilli on the planet, 100,000 Scovilles Naga Chilli Vodka is so fiery it comes with a lengthy heath warning on the back of the bottle.

This vodka, named after the units used to measure the heat of chillies, is not intended to be drunk neat. Each Scoville unit denotes how many times the chilli must be diluted by its own mass of water until the heat is only just detectable. A Jalapeño has around 5,000 Scovilles. The Naga Jolokia, used to make the vodka, can exceed 1,000,000 Scovilles, which is more than most police grade pepper spray.

The retailer recommends the vodka be used sparingly to add spice to exotic cocktails, or even in cooking. It strongly advises against having the vodka as a shot. Included in the online health warning is the following: By purchasing this bottle you agree that you fully understand that this product contains extreme heat and should be used responsibly.

You use this product entirely at your own risk and understand the potential danger if used or handled irresponsibly. If you give this product as a gift you will make the recipient aware of the potential danger if used or handled irresponsibly. Master of Malt was founded in 1985 and is one of the UK’s leading online whisky and spirits merchants. 100,000 Scovilles is available from the Master of Malt website for £31.95. Drink it if you dare!

Cabernet a "cornerstone for Chile's future"

2012-01-20T00:00:00.000-08:00

Australian winemaker and consultant Brian Croser has spoken out in praise of Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon, calling it “a cornerstone for the future of Chilean wine.” As reported on thedrinksbusiness.com, speaking at the inaugural South American Wine Workshop in London, organised by Santa Rita Estates, Croser said Chilean Cabernet was even more distinctive than Napa Cabernet.

“Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon is completely unique and can’t be replicated. Its unmistakable Cabernet nature is a real advantage for Chile, and a strength to build upon,” Croser said. “The best examples are subliminal, with grainy tannins that impart a savoury note on the finish,” he added, warning that the big challenge for Chilean vintners is to learn how to tame their tannins. “They’re a long way off at the moment,” he admitted.

Croser believes the uniqueness of Chilean Cabernet comes from the extreme differences between day and night temperatures, which gives the grapes longer to build up pyroxene and phenols, allowing for the steady build up of tannin. “Chile has recognised the challenge of the Cabernet varieties and the unusually high diurnal range of the terroirs and continues to refine the vineyard management, creating some of the world's most unique and distinctive Cabernets with subliminal briarines and evolved savoury tannins,” he said.

He referred to the Cabernet family of grapes, including Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Carmenere as “Chile’s backbone”, calling Cabernet Franc the “mother grape” and imparter of the green gene. “Chile’s fine wine future lies in refining its traditional Cabernet offering from the Central Valley and at the same time exploring what the county’s other terroirs have to offer,” he said, citing Chile’s “matrix of terroir” as having great potential for other noble grape varieties, including Riesling, Syrah, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc.

He also name-checked Temuco as a region to watch, predicting it will become an important place for sparkling wine production. “The future of Chilean sparkling wine lies in the south, towards the mountains, in drier areas like Temuco. I’m certain there’s a future for Chilean sparkling wine down there, all we need is a producer brave enough to start planting,” he said.

Meanwhile, Chilean wine expert Peter Richards MW spoke out in defence of Carmenere, calling it “a first division grape" that speaks of its origins. “We have to remember how new it is. Quality will increase in time and lots of different kinds of Carmenere will emerge, as it’s a naturally varied variety,” Richards said. Tim Atkin MW also defended the grape: “I’m coming round to it, especially in blends. The problem with Carmenere is its green character, which needs to be addressed. The trick is being able to manage the tannin,” he said.

"Father of Amarone" Quintarelli dies

2012-01-19T00:02:00.000-08:00

Giuseppe Quintarelli, a winemaker from the Veneto recognised as the father of Amarone, has died aged 84. As reported on thedrinksbusiness.com, Quintarelli, whose Valpolicellas and Amarones were revered all over the world, died on Sunday at his home in Negrar in the province of Verona. The Quintarelli estate, which dates back to 1924, is considered by many to be the best producer of Amarone della Valpolicella.

In an era characterised by mass production over attention to detail, Quintarelli sought to make wines without compromise, cutting grape yields far below other producers, and employing painstakingly labor-intensive practices in the vineyards and the cellar. As a result, his Valpolicellas were benchmark: intense and structured, yet light and graceful, with the ability to age. His Amarones meanwhile, were powerful yet fresh.

“Quintarelli’s wines are completely different from the standardised, repetitive and boring wine commodities you so often find among Amarones today,” said wine writer Franco Ziliani. “They are wines that require intelligence, experience, culture, patience and time, all elements so different from the simple, fast appreciation of wine today. He was one of the last of the Mohicans,” Ziliani added.

Quintarelli was born on March 19, 1927, in Negrar; the heart of Valpolicella region. He started working on his father’s estate in the ‘50s, and worked assiduously to improve methods of farming, extending the domain and relentlessly experimenting with winemaking techniques. Quintarelli’s commitment to quality extended beyond the vineyard and cellar. His labels – handwritten by his daughters – were beautiful and distinctive.

Quintarelli leaves his wife, Franca, four daughters, and several grandchildren. Franca Quintarelli, along with daughter Fiorenza and her husband, Giampaolo Grigoli, will continue to run the winery. His death marks the passing of another Italian wine legend so far this year, following the death of Giulio Gambelli earlier this month.

Regional charcuterie at Cantina del Ponte

2012-01-18T00:02:00.000-08:00

Struggling with the January detox? If you're sick of salad and craving a meat injection, then head to Italian institution Cantina del Ponte in Shad Thames, which is celebrating all things meaty this winter. Executive chef Claudio Gottardo is passionate about all things porcine, and, keen to flag up the regional differences of Italian cured meats, he's devised a monthly menu of meaty treats for January, February and March from Italy's northern, central and southern regions, each with an accompanying pasta dish and glass of wine from the respective regions.

Italy's top cured meats, such as Parma and San Daniele ham, have come to be viewed as luxury items, but were conversely born out of necessity, the meat being cured as a means of preserving it through winter. Kicking off 2012 in style, I was invited to try out all three meaty menus for size, beginning my journey in Northern Italy with a platter of Bresaola, Prosciutto, Lardo and Speck. Made from the top part of the leg of beef, Bresaola is salted for three weeks then air-dried for three months until it darkens to almost purple and develops a sweet, musky smell. Fast becoming the meat of the moment, the melt-in-the-mouth Lardo is devilishly decadent, made almost entirely of pearl white fat, taken from the layer of fat just under the skin of the pig's neck. Once considered a peasant snack, the meat is cured using salt, pepper, sage and cloves, resulting in a silky, almost bone marrow-like texture.

We end the platter with shreds of Speck from Alto Adige on the Austrian/Swiss border. Combining seasoning and smoking with lashings of fresh air, the resulting ham is aged for at least 22 weeks and has a moreish, bacon-like character. Our first pasta dish is a pair of pesto-green gnocci balls rich from the sage butter and threaded with parsley and parmesan. To match, the sommelier pours a glass of Alpha Zeta V Valpolicella 2010, bursting with juicy red cherries. Unmistakably Italian, its palate is laced with leather and liquorice.

Our second meat plate takes us down the boot to Central Italy, and the delights of Wild Boar Salami, Parma ham, Mortadella and Culatello. Deriving from the Latin for salt (sal), wild boar salami, a typical dish from the Maremma, is made from a mixture of mince meat, fat, salt and spices. The sausage is cured in the traditional salting method for over a month, giving the meat an incredibly rich, gamey flavour. Italy's best-known cured meat, Parma ham, dates back to the Middle Ages, while the candyfloss pink Mortadella harks back to the Roman Empire. Made from minced pork shoulder, fat squares are added as the meat is seasoned. The result is pleasingly porcine.

The pear-shaped Culatello comes from Emilia Romagna, and is only made between October and February, when the region is enshrouded in fog. Taken from the thigh of adult pigs, the meat is aged for a year until it becomes ruby red and develops its signature sweetness. Accompanying the meat is a dish of penne with cured pigs cheeks in a spicy tomato sauce, and a generous glass of Frentano Montepulciano de Abruzzo 2010, that bursts with ripe raspberries and blackberries, its voluptuous body balanced by dusty tannins.

For the final furlong of our carnivorous feast, we move to Southern Italy, turning up the heat with Spicy Salami, Porchetta, Nduja and Soppressata. Hailing from Naples, the salami is made of minced pork and chili peppers, salt and spices cured for three months. Porchetta meanwhile, is a light pink meat made from a whole pig, which is drained, boned and seasoned with salt, garlic and copious herbs then roasted in a wood fire oven for six hours.

The exotically-named Nduja is a soft and spicy salami from Calabria made from smoked pig fat and chili peppers. Traditionally a peasants dish created to use up the scraps of the pig, it's best enjoyed slathered over toast. Last to be tasted on the platter is Soppressata, which has been produced in Basilicata for three centuries and derives from noble cuts of ham seasoned with salt and whole peppercorns. To match is a bowl of broccoli-green orecchiette (little ear) pasta from Puglia with bitter turnip tops and anchovies, and a glass of La Casada Salice Salentino 2009. Spicy, savoury and seductive, it proves a perfect pairing for the undulating waves of meat. Earthy and bursting with sweet cherries and stewed plums, it charms at first sip.

Yao Ming wine arrives in China

2012-01-17T00:00:00.000-08:00

China's burgeoning interest in fine wine is set to get another boost thanks to the arrival of the first batch of Yao Ming 2009 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon into the country. As reported on thedrinksbusiness.com, the much-hyped wine is ready for sale at 3,800 yuan (£384) a bottle, but none of the 1,200 bottles will be sold on the open market. According to China Daily newspaper, Ming’s wine will only be distributed among high-end consumers.

Made through the former basketball player's wine company – Yao Family Wines – the Cabernet Sauvignon grapes come from six vineyard plots in California’s Napa Valley. The 7 foot 6 sport star, who retired from the Houston Rockets in July with a personal net worth of over US$65 million, announced the debut of Yao Ming Wine in November. Along with winemaking, Ming has also moved into politics, taking his seat on Sunday as a new member of the standing committee of Shanghai's political advisory body during its annual session.

He is not the only celebrity in China targeting the booming fine wine market. Chinese movie star Zhao Wei bought the 7-hectare Château Monlot in Bordeaux’s St Emilion region for around €4m last December. It has been reported that she will sell the wine in China. Celebrities investing in the wine industry are hoping to generate profits from the exuberant Chinese market.

However, experts warn that they will need to pay attention to quality in order to maintain custom and establish a good reputation. "For Yao Ming, it was a good marketing strategy to create his own-brand wine. However, it will take a long time for customers to recognise the intrinsic value of the wine and believe it is worthwhile buying," said marketing expert Shu Guohua. "As a Chinese person, I think it will be better for Yao to invest in white spirits. The market demand for white spirits in China is much larger than for red wine,” Guohua added.

Top 10 most powerful people in wine

2012-01-16T00:02:00.000-08:00

the drinks business rounds up the top 10 most powerful people in the world of luxury wine and spirits shaping what we drink, taking into account influence, wealth and brand ownership.

1: Bernard Arnault (age 62)

The LVMH chairman and CEO is the world’s fourth and Europe’s richest person, with a 2011 net worth of US$41 billion (£26bn). Arguably the most influential tastemaker in the world of luxury, Arnault’s shiny portfolio includes heavyweight Champagne houses Krug, Dom Pérignon, Veuve Clicquot, Ruinart, Sauternes’ revered Château d’Yquem, St Emilion’s sought after Château Cheval Blanc (which he has a 50% personal stake in), and Toro newcomer Numanthia, with Belvedere, Glenmorangie and Ardberg holding up the spirits end. Arnault’s wealth soared this year, as demand for fine wines and sprits accelerated in Asia.

Through acquisitions, savvy marketing and bold design, Arnault has turned LVMH into a global empire boasting more than 60 brands, including fashion labels Louis Vuitton and Marc Jacobs. LVMH is counting on emerging markets for its future growth. “China is the most interesting part of the world for me now. There are so many people who are getting to the stage where they want to consume, who want to be part of a club,” Arnault says. In five years, Arnault expects China to account for 20% of LVMH’s sales.

2: Pierre Pringuet (age 60)

The 60-year-old chief executive of Pernod Ricard presides over the world’s fourth biggest drinks company, owner of brands from Champagne Mumm and Perrier-Jouët to Martell Cognac and Scotch whiskies Ballantine’s, Chivas Regal, Royal Salute and The Glenlivet. In September, sales in emerging markets allowed Pernod Ricard to outstrip its larger rival Diageo to post organic sales growth of 7%. Pernod saw its emerging markets leap by 17%, driven largely by 15% organic growth in Asia. Further headline figures saw the group report pre-tax full year sales of e7,643 million (£6.559m). Working for Pernod Ricard since 1987, Pringuet has been a board member since 2004.

3: Paul Walsh (age 56)

At the helm of drinks giant Diageo, Paul Walsh presides over some of the world’s top spirits brands, from Cîroc vodka (a collaboration with rapper P Diddy), to Johnnie Walker whisky, Ketel One vodka and Tanqueray gin. The company recently collaborated with hip-hop artist Pharrell Williams to launch a super-premium cream liqueur, Qream, aimed at the luxury clubbing market. Also on their books is London-based fine wine merchant Justerini & Brooks, while the company has had a 34% stake in LVMH since the mid-1990s. Walsh has headed Diageo for 11 years, having been appointed to the board in December 1997. Walsh is also chairman of the Scotch Whisky Association.

4: The Rothschilds (ages 71 - Eric, 78 - Philippine)

Baron Eric de Rothschild has presided over Domaines Barons de Rothschild’s extensive portfolio, including Châteaux Lafite, Duhart-Milon and Rieussec, and Viña los Vascos in Chile, for 37 years, while his cousin, Baroness Philippine, oversees an impressive portfolio of her own, including first growth Château Mouton Rothschild, Château Clerc Milon and cult Californian winery Opus One. Lafite’s huge influence in China – empty bottles sell for up to £250 online, has contributed greatly to the company’s recent success, but there are already signs that the wine’s popularity in China may be on the wane. Last October, Sotheby’s failed to sell all the Lafite on offer in a Hong Kong auction for the first time in 17 sales. Lafite aside, the Rothschilds have embarked on a new venture in Champagne with new brand Champagne Barons de Rothschild, further strengthening the family’s luxury credentials.

5: Aubert de Villaine (age 72)

With the popularity of Lafite abating among the Chinese super elite due to the proliferation of fakes on the market, wealthy Asians are turning to Burgundy, and more specifically, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, headed up by Aubert de Villaine. The insatiable appetite for the reds of this famous Burgundian domaine in Hong Kong has now carried over to all the key markets in China – especially Beijing. In a given vintage, Romanée-Conti only makes about 450 cases. Production of La Tâche is significantly more with slightly just over 1,800 cases made annually. At a recent Acker, Merrall & Condit auction in Hong Kong, a single Jeroboam of 1999 Romanée-Conti sold for more than £47,000. De Villaine is also director of Hyde de Villaine Wines in Napa Valley and is about to show the first vintage of his new acquisition in Burgundy: the 2.2 Clos du Roi in Corton, which he bought in 2009.

6: Robert Parker (age 64)

The American lawyer-turned-wine scribe’s power as the world’s most influential wine critic still stands, but as he hands over more key regions to Wine Advocate colleagues, in particular California to Antonio Galloni, the emperor’s power is slowly diminishing. In his address at WineFuture in Hong Kong last November, Parker admitted his star may be fading, but that his influence has always been greatly overplayed. However, his "Magical 20" tasting at the even attracted 1,000 people – the maximum able to be accommodated, while the wines featured from the Bordeaux 2009 vintage have enjoyed a spike in prices, even though they have not yet been delivered to customers.

7: Sylvie Cazes (age 56)

Cazes has a multitude of titles, including director of the Union des Grand Crus de Bordeaux and co-owner of Château Lynch-Bages in Pauillac with brother Jean-Michel. This February, Cazes was appointed director of Pauillac second growth estate Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande. Cazes is also a member of Bordeaux City Council, with a mandate to promote economic development through the wine sector. She continues to work for the development of the Wine Cultural Centre, due to open in the city in 2013.

8: The wine consultant (Michel Rolland, age 63, Denis Dubourdieu, age 60, Stéphane Derenoncourt, age 48)

Michel Rolland, the Bordeaux-based go-to consultant, is one of the most influential winemakers in the world. His enviable CV includes stints at Angélus, Ausone, Ornellaia and Harlan Estate, though Rolland also owns several properties that he markets under The Rolland Collection, including Château Le Bon Pasteur in Pomerol. He consults for over 100 properties worldwide, with clients in India, Bulgaria and Brazil.

Dubourdieu is one of the world’s most respected consultants. Specialising in white wine, he has influenced production and quality globally. Dubourdieu owns a number of Bordeaux châteaux, including Doisy-Daëne in Barsac and Clos Floridène in Graves. He has also made a Japanese white wine, Shizen, from the indigenous Koshu grape for Asagiri Wine Company.

Heir apparent to Michel Rolland, Derenoncourt is taking on more consultancies outside France: in 2008, he was hired by film director Francis Ford Coppola to work at his newly renamed Inglenook Estate in Napa, and has founded Derenoncourt California, where he makes six single vineyard wines, including his first 100% Cabernet Franc. Closer to home, Derenoncourt offers his services at Crushpad in St-Emilion. He continues to consult for a number of Bordeaux châteaux, as well as properties in China, India and Turkey.

9: Nobutada Saji (age 65)

The chief executive of Suntory Ltd, Japan’s fourth-largest brewer, was last year ranked as the second richest person in Japan, with a net worth of US$8.6bn. Founded in 1899 by Saji’s grandfather, Suntory was the first to sell Western spirits in Japan. Business is thriving in China – its beer has a more than 50% market share in Shanghai. The company owns Cognac Louis Royer, has a majority stake in Chinese importer ASC, 50% stakes in Château Beychevelle and Rheingau estate Weingut Robert Weil, and a 40% share in Tokaji winery Hetszölö.

10: Frédéric Rouzaud (age 43)

Rouzaud (above, left) took over from his father Jean-Claude as president of the Champagne Louis Roederer Group in January 2006, becoming the custodian of Cristal. The driving force behind all flagship companies in the family owned group, Rouzaud runs a tight ship at Champagne Louis Roederer, Champagne Deutz, Maison Delas in the Côtes du Rhône, Château de Pez and Château Haut-Beauséjour in Bordeaux, Ramos Pinto in Portugal, Domaines Ott in Provence and finally Roederer Estate and Scharffenberger Cellars in California. In January 2007, the Rouzaud family acquired a majority share in second growth estate Château Pichon Longueville Comtess de Lalande.

Invivo dinner at The Fulham Wine Rooms

2012-01-15T00:02:00.000-08:00

Proving that small can indeed be beautiful are Rob Cameron and Tim Lightbourne of Invivo Wines, a boutique New Zealand winery founded by the entrepreneurial pair in 2007. Making wine from both Marlborough and Central Otago, Invivo released its first wine in 2008 and has built up its range to five wines: a Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Rosé and a low alcohol Sauvignon Blanc called Bella, known as "skinny Sav", which is proving incredibly popular with health-conscious women, leading the boys to triple production.

While in town last month, winemaker Rob Cameron (left) showed off his quintet at The Fulham Wine Rooms at a dinner organised by Jimmy Smith of the West London Wine School. Having worked stints in Slovenia, Cyrpus and Moldova, Cameron is happy to be back in his homeland, with business partner Lightbourne – who counts L'Oreal among his previous employers – looking after the marketing.

Conscious of the importance a label can have on a global brand, the pair struck upon a dynamic design; a white eight-point star set against a black background created by New Zealand fashion house Zambesi. But with so many wineries out there, what makes Invivo different? “Hands on marketing, hands on winemaking and a strong belief in the quality of our wine,” enthuses Lightbourne. “We don’t just send a container of product to our export market, we send ourselves as well."

Ensconced in The Fulham Wine Rooms' private dining room, Cameron kicked off with 2011 Bella Sauvignon Blanc, which I was curious to try. The nose displayed all the typical Kiwi Sauvignon aromas you'd expect, from blackcurrant leaf to freshly cut grass, pineapple and passion fruit, while the palate offered mouth-watering acidity and surprising body and punch for a 9% abv wine. Having been charmed by Bella, we moved on to the 2011 Pinot Gris produced in Marlborough. The feminine nose showed exotic aromas of quince, fig, lychee and poached pear, while the unctuous palate offered both texture and clean acidity. To match, we enjoyed an autumnal tartine of aubergine and mushrooms in an earthy, creamy sauce.

For the main event, we moved on to the estate's signature wine, the 2011 Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, releasing the inner philosopher in Cameron: "With our Sauvignon Blanc, it's about creating a moment in time in the vineyard." More fragrant than Bella, it had a zingy nose of cut grass, tropical fruit and freshly squeezed lime. Bright and alive, the palate was deceptively powerful, with impressive concentration and lift from the vibrant acidity and herbal notes, which proved a great pairing for the accompanying fillet of cod in a zesty sauce vierge – a virgin sauce made from olive oil, lemon juice and chopped tomato.

Up next was 2010 Sophie's Rosé, named after the founder of Zambesi. A pretty salmon pink, the fresh, summery wine burst with strawberries, raspberries, redcurrants and watermelon. A charming picnic wine, it proved a perfect pair for our pineapple pud. Saving the best till last, Cameron cracked open his 2009 Central Otago Pinot Noir to enjoy with the cheese. By far my favourite wine of the night, its deep ruby colour revealed a meaty nose of forest floor, red berry, smoky bacon and herbal aromas, while the soft, perfumed palate of bright red cherries almost longingly recalled a beautiful Burgundy. Was he aiming for a Burgundian style? "All New World winemakers that make Pinot Noir are aspiring to the heights of great Burgundy," Cameron admits.

Wine aside, both Cameron and Lightbourne take a great interest in art, sponsoring and setting up an Invivo bar at the 2011 Venice Biennale, and nurturing homegrown creative talent, including musicians, fashion designers and their latest discovery; a group of graffiti artists, TMD Crew, at the forefront of the global graffiti scene. Could this mean a daring new label for Invivo's next release? Watch this space...

Vodka-filled Fabergé eggs hit the UK

2012-01-14T06:25:00.000-08:00

Russian-based company Ladoga has released 100 Fabergé-inspired eggs onto the UK market, filled with Imperial Collection Vodka, as reported on thedrinksbusiness.com. Crafted by Russian artisans using enamel, crystals, and 24-carat gold gilding, the eggs are modelled on the world-famous jewelled eggs created by master goldsmith Peter Carl Fabergé over a century ago.

Housed inside is a decanter, four Venetian glasses, and a bottle of super premium vodka made from homegrown wheat and rye with a water base from Lake Ladoga, the largest freshwater lake in Europe. The vodka is filtered 5 times through birch charcoal, then several times through quartz sand and finally though an algae, whose microstructure supposedly guarantees purity.

The smoothness and velvety texture of the resulting vodka aims to recapture the style of vodka that was enjoyed by the aristocracy of St Petersburg in the 19 Century. Each egg is topped by a golden eagle designed by a Florentine master jeweller who has worked in the Vatican for over 30 years. Brought into the UK through luxury brand development company Signature Lifestyles, only 100 eggs will be made for the collection each year.

The world-renowned Fabergé eggs were fashionable among the elite in St Petersburg over 100 years ago. The most popular pieces created by Fabergé were the miniature, jewelled eggs worn on a neck chain. 50 larger eggs were created for Russian Tsars Alexander III and Nicholas II. Of the 50 made for the Imperialist rulers, 42 have survived.

The Imperial Collection Vodka eggs are available at Browns boutique in London’s South Molton Street, ranging from £2,600 for the coloured enamel egg, to £5,600 for the gold and silver egg.

World's first meteorite-aged wine launched

2012-01-13T00:02:00.000-08:00

An Englishman working in Chile has launched what is believed to be the first wine aged with a meteorite formed during the birth of the solar system. As reported on thedrinksbusiness.com, Norwich-born Ian Hutcheon (pictured) has released a Cabernet Sauvignon called Meteorito aged with a 4.5 billion-year-old meteorite from the Asteroid Belt between Mars and Jupiter. The extra-terrestrial wine was created at Hutcheon’s Tremonte Vineyard in the Cachapoal Valley in Chile.

“I’ve been involved in wines and astronomy for many, many years and I wanted to find some way of combining the two,” Hutcheon said. “When you drink this wine, you are drinking elements from the birth of the solar system,” he added. Belonging to an American collector, the three-inch meteorite is believed to have crashed into the Atacama Desert in northern Chile around 6,000 years ago.

“The idea behind submerging it in wine was to give people the chance to touch something from space; the very history of the solar system, and feel it via a grand wine,” Hutcheon said. In April 2010, Cabernet Sauvignon grapes were picked from his mountain vineyard, planted on an old gold mine 100km south-west of Chile’s capital Santiago.

The fruit was then fermented for 25 days, before undergoing malolactic fermentation for 12 months – it was during this process that the wine was held in a wooden barrel with the meteorite, before being blended with another batch of Cabernet Sauvignon. Hutcheon believes the meteorite gives the wine a “livelier taste”.

Meteorito Cabernet Sauvignon is currently only sold at the Centro Astronomico Tagua Tagua – an observatory launched by Hutcheon in 2007, but the winemaker is keen to export it to other countries, including the UK. Around 10,000 litres of the wine have been made.

Domaine Dujac

2012-01-12T00:02:00.000-08:00

Wine and the City talks to Alec Seysses of Domaine Dujac at the Berry Bros Burgundy 2010 en primeur tasting about the 2010 vintage, comparisons to 2009, how lower yields will affect pricing, and whether Burgundy will become the next big wine investment region for China.

Wine by the sip returns to Selfridges

2012-01-11T00:02:00.000-08:00

Selfridges’ head sommelier Dawn Davies has won a five-year legal battle to allow 25ml measures of wine to be sold at the department store’s Wonder Bar, the drinks business reports. Leading the campaign by members of the wine trade, Davies persuaded ministers to scrap "mad, archaic" laws that barred bars and restaurants from selling wine by the sip. Having sold 25ml measures of wine when the Wonder Bar opened in 2007, Davies was told the sips were in breach of the 1988 Weights and Measures Order, specifying that wine can only be sold in 125ml, 175ml and 250ml glasses.

But her indefatigable lobbying has paid off, and the law has been amended. “We got an email from the government's National Measurement Office the day before New Year’s Eve. Westminster were supposed to call, but I guess they were too busy with the New Year celebrations,” Davies said. When I saw we’d won I screamed and jumped up and down – it didn’t feel real. I couldn’t stop dancing around the office. It’s the first time the government has done anything positive for the drinks industry in a very long time,” she added.

All the wines at the Wonder Bar are now available in the 25ml measure with prices starting from £1. The new "sips list" includes Chablis 1er Cru, Vaillons, Domaine Christian Moreau Père et Fils at £1.75; and Château Pichon-Lalande’s second wine Réserve de Comtesse at £2.75. Davies plans to celebrate the victory by putting some very special bottles on the bar’s fleet of Enomatic machines. “I want to put some old Burgundy on there, an old vintage of Sassicaia, and some old Bordeaux, perhaps even Pétrus,” she teased.

Teaming up with Jamie Hutchinson of Islington wine shop The Sampler in 2007, the pair organised a petition, wrote letters to Lacors – the body in charge of local government regulation – and persuaded drinks industry trade groups, including the drinks business, to lobby the government. “The campaign was a fast burner to begin with, then it lost momentum, and I had to keep nudging the government with emails,” Davies said. “After four years of fighting, it felt like it was never going to happen, as they stopped answering my emails, that’s why I was so shocked to hear the news,” she added, believing the overturning of the law to be “massively important” for the wine trade.

“Any venue in London or indeed the UK can now serve wine by the sip, which gives the on trade more flexibility and opens up the world of wine education – it will be great for venues like Vinopolis,” Davies said. The new regulation means pubs and restaurants can sell wine in any measure they like below 75ml. The law change had been due to come into force last year but was delayed by the election.

Aldo Conterno at The Ledbury

2012-01-10T00:02:00.000-08:00

2011 was quite a year for The Ledbury. The small, neighbourhood restaurant in Notting Hill maintained its two Michelin stars, became ingratiated into the San Pellegrino World's 50 Best Restaurants as the highest newcomer at number 34, was crowned The Sunday Times UK restaurant of the year, and if all that wasn't exhausting enough, Australian head chef Brett Graham and his staff heroically protected diners when the restaurant was attacked during the London riots in August, chasing away masked looters with rolling pins.

I was lucky enough to get a slice of The Ledbury action in late November, having been invited by wine whiz kid Gareth Birchley of fine wine trader Bordeaux Index to attend an Aldo Conterno dinner hosted by Conterno's son Franco. The Conterno family is arguably Barolo's premier winemaking dynasty – Aldo's father Giacomo was one of the stalwarts of the region. But, rather than joining his brother Giovanni in the running of the family estate, Aldo struck out on his own in 1969. While Giovanni continued to make benchmark Barolo under the Giacomo Conterno label, Aldo ploughed his own furrow, making a more accessible style of Barolo than his family's traditional style.

Arriving fashionably late, the restaurant, which had been closed to the public for the event, was already buzzing with animated banter, helped along by glasses of ice-cold Pol Roger NV. Each and every canapé was a thing of beauty, from foie gras fancies and precise oysters prettified with hake snow to crunchy wild boar croquettes oozing white truffle oil. Ushered to our seats, we were immediately offered warm bacon brioche, enriched by an awaiting slab of salted butter. Sporting a silver gray suit and slicked back black hair, Franco Conterno held court, talking us through the first wine duo of the night: Bussiador Chardonnay 2003 and 2006. Expressing a love of Burgundian Chardonnay, Conterno explained that his father had planted the vines 30 years ago with the intention of ageing the wine in new French oak.

The Aldo Conterno estate lies in Bussia, in the village of Monforte d'Alba at the heart of the Barolo region. Aided by sons Franco, Giacomo and Stefano, Aldo tends to 25-ha of vines on calcareous marl and sandy soils surrounding the family home. The jewels in the Conterno crown are the trio of cru vineyards: Romirasco, Cicala and Colonello, from which the estate's three single vineyard wines are grown. According to Franco, wines from the Romirasco site are powerful and spicy, with the greatest potential for ageing, while the Cicala wines are full bodied and the Colonello more gentle, feminine and floral.

The Bussiadors were delightful. Glinting gold, the 2006 stole the show with its mature, Montrachet-like honeyed nose. Unctuous, rich, elegant and textured, with incredible length, it showed sweet caramelised notes of toffee apple on the palate and proved a divine wine to begin the night. The wines were paired with a rosemary and buttermilk curd in a soothing, herby broth of grilled onions flavoured with juniper, accompanied by deliciously decadent truffles on toast.

We were then treated to a trio of 2006 Barolos from each of the single vineyards, as a way of comparing how the different terroirs influence the wines. The clay-rich soils of Cicala gave a robust but elegant example of Barolo, while the limestone soils of Romirasco made for a more powerful, spicier wine built to age gracefully with a rich nose of black cherries. Finally, the Colonello from sandy soils was lighter and more elegant. The most approachable of the three, it had a silky palate of sour cherries. To pair, we devoured a rich, log-like boudin of grouse in a creamy cep and chestnut sauce.

Our feast continued with a 2004 comparison of the Colonello and Romirasco single vineyards, the former exhibiting a wonderfully perfumed nose and the tar and roses you expect from Barolo, along with hints of licquorice and tea, while the latter was punchy, weighty and tannic, and clearly needs more time to shine. Holding its own against the might of the wines was a faggot of Berkshire hare with tea-soaked prunes and a puree of parsley root flavoured with chocolate. The achingly tender hare was expertly cooked, showing off Graham's precision and flair.

Our next wine flight took us to the 1999 vintage of Cicala and the estate's crown jewel – Granbussia, a blend of the three single vineyards – 70% Romirasco, 15% Colonello and 15% Cicala, which is only made in exceptional years. The Cicala was surprisingly Port-like, with a rich nose of raisins and Christmas cake, and an almost PX-like sweetness, while the Granbussia displayed similarly sultana-like dried fruit notes. To match, we indulged in a risotto of celeriac with grated duck egg, smoked bone marrow, parmesan and generous slithers of shaved white truffle that blanketed the plate. A hedonistic combination, the textured dish was rich and almost poignantly comforting.

The final flourish came in the form of 1978 Barolo Granbussia, one of the greatest wines the estate has ever produced. A class act, it showed attractive savoury notes of smoky bacon and green pea. The tannins had all but disappeared, leaving a wonderfully approachable silky texture, making it a joy to drink with the accompanying loin of silka deer with walnuts in a dried chicory reduction. The ruby red slither of deer glistened on the plate, the juicy meat proving an ideal companion for the savoury wine. Stuffed as a pillow from the heavenly onslaught, I managed to find room for a salted caramel (or three) as the petit fours did the rounds. Sauntering down Ledbury Road post feast, head slightly fuzzy from all the wine, I lost my way in the backstreets of Notting Hill and stumbled upon a secret garden. Where's Hugh Grant when you need him for a leg-up?

Worrall Thompson cautioned for wine theft

2012-01-09T08:51:00.001-08:00

Television chef Antony Worrall Thompson has been given a police caution after being caught shoplifting wine and cheese from Tesco. As reported on thedrinksbusiness.com, Worrall Thompson was filmed by staff at the supermarket in Henley-on-Thames failing to pay for goods at the self-scan check out machines on five shopping trips between 22 December and 6 January. Some items were scanned and paid for but others, understood to include cheeses from the deli and bottles of wine, were bagged without being put through the till.

Security staff installed a hidden camera after their suspicions about his behaviour were raised. He was stopped by security staff as he left the shop on Friday. Police were called and he was arrested on suspicion of theft. The 60-year-old chef was held at a local police station where his mug shot, fingerprints and DNA saliva swab were taken.

A spokesman for Thames Valley Police said: “We arrested a man from High Wycombe following a report of shoplifting offences. The man has been issued with a formal caution for these offences.” A person must admit an offence before they can be given a caution. Worrall Thompson said today: “I'm so sorry for all my recent stupid and irresponsible actions; I am of course devastated for my family and friends, whom I’ve let down and will seek the treatment that is clearly needed.

“I am not the first, and certainly won’t be the last person to do something without rhyme or reason – what went through my head, only time will tell. I must also apologise sincerely to Tesco, with whom I’m had a long and genuine working relationship, and to the staff at the Henley branch, many of whom I’ve got to know over the years. Once again, I am so sorry and hopefully in the future I can make amends.”

The chef has appeared on BBC’s Ready Steady Cook and ITV's I’m a Celebrity Get Me Out of Here. The Godson of actor Richard Burton, Worrall Thompson has a line of branded cookery utensils. In 2009 he was forced to close four of his six restaurants and make sixty staff redundant after his bank refused to extend his overdraft.

Laurent-Perrier dinner at The Greenhouse

2012-01-08T12:58:00.000-08:00

Forgive me, dear reader, for being too late off the mark to inform you of the glittering offer Michelin-starred Mayfair restaurant The Greenhouse and Champagne house Laurent-Perrier devised for the festive season. The best I can do is recount the experience and hope they have a repeat performance in 2012. In December, The Greenhouse ran a bespoke five-course menu, with each dish matched by its flavour profile to a different Laurent-Perrier Champagne.

Invited to try the menu for size, I seized the opportunity, stumbling upon the restaurant's Zen-like wooden decking festooned with climbing plants almost by chance. Navigating its verdant path, I felt instantly transported from the stresses of city life. And once within its warm clutches, glass of Laurent-Perrier Ultra Brut in hand, any worries I may have been harbouring dissolved with the first sip. Launched in 1889 – the year the Eiffel Tower was completed, the super dry Champagne has become a favourite with super models due to its zero sugar count. Guided into the round, glass-fronted, private dining room filled with a sprinkling of bright-eyed fellow food and wine bloggers, we were welcomed by L-P UK's managing director David Hesketh MW, who regaled us with a brief history of the house.

Like the famed widow Clicquot, Veuve Laurent-Perrier ran the Champagne house for many years, with the Veuve only being dropped from the Laurent-Perrier name in the '60s. Marie-Louise Lanson de Nonancourt bought the house on the eve of the World War II in 1939, and continued to produce still wine during the war years, but production had dropped dramatically from 600,000 bottles to just 12,000 before the war. Mid story, we were invited to try an amuse bouche of warm hens egg with cobb nuts, which surprised and delighted in equal measure. Deconstructed into a creamy foam with the yolk at the bottom, the crunchy cobb nuts brought texture, and the foam richness. With this playful dish, head chef Antonin Bonnet was firmly flexing his culinary muscles, whetting our appetites for the courses that followed.

Continuing with the tightly-woven Ultra Brut, we were presented with an exquisite, ethereal plate of apple cider marinated mackerel with a dusting of powdery horseradish snow and pickled radish, which rested on the fish like a dislodged cornea. The potent flavour of fish was assuaged by bites of the cold snow and crunchy radish, culminating in an elegant whole. Mackerel devoured, we moved swiftly on to a glass of the acclaimed 2002 vintage, Champagne's best in decades. A lovely expression of the vintage, it showed toasty notes of biscuit, butter and brioche, with a smooth and rounded palate. To match, was a plump slice of swan white Atlantic cod served with leek fondu and smoked potato in a Champagne and yuzu sauce, which, though expertly cooked, failed to enchant like the previous dish.

Adding to the theatre of the evening, our next Champagne, Laurent-Perrier Grand Siècle – named after the reign of the "Sun King" Louis XIV, was ceremoniously poured from a gleaming silver aiguière cradle. Housed in a jet-black bottle in L-P's signature 17th century shape, the house's prestige cuvée is a 50:50 Chardonnay/Pinot Noir blend of multiple vintages – on this occasion '96, '97 and '99. More like a still wine than a sparkler, it displayed aromas of honey, hazelnuts and almonds, its character complex, refined and multi-layered. Harmonizing with rather than overpowering the wine was a serving of meaty Scottish lobster, its spine seemingly brushed with red paint. Swimming in the creamy lobster bisque were delicious discs of earthy cep ravioli and a solitary chicken oyster.

We then moved to the sweet end of the flavour spectrum with a zingy pre-dessert of pineapple sorbet and coconut foam, which recalled a Piña Colada cocktail in food form. Making for possibly the most harmonious pairing of the evening, the tropical pudding was matched with Laurent-Perrier Demi-Sec, an off-dry style steadily creeping back into fashion, the softness of its slightly sweet palate serving as a reminder of pleasures past. With 40g of sugar per litre, this sweeter style is not to my taste, but it paired undeniably well with the sugary sorbet.

The final flourish came in the form of an exquisitely crafted rhubarb and apple millefeuille served with a teardrop-shaped scoop of pear sorbet. Resting under a white chocolate shard glinting with a fleck of edible gold paper, tiny balls of apple took the top bunk to the pink rhubarb's bottom, separated by a paper-thin layer of crisp, crunchy pastry. The intense tang of the sour rhubarb was softened by the Milkybar-like layer of creamy white chocolate. To pair, we were treated to the houses's signature wine and Victoria Beckham's Champagne of choice – Laurent-Perrier Rosé, which showed delightful notes of summer fruits, from redcurrants to raspberries. Feminine and yet full bodied, L-P Rosé more than merits its elevated reputation.

Before we made our way into the cold London night, we were offered a selection of petit fours, including an especially cheeky chocolate shaped like a perfectly pert breast with a gold nipple. It was great to see Antonin having fun on the plate, and proving that Michelin-starred restaurants are allowed (and should be encouraged) to have a sense of humour. Injecting Asian influences into classic French fare, dishes at The Greenhouse are painstakingly thought out and artistically executed. The fact that I didn't even register I was drinking Champagne throughout the meal rather than still red or white wine is testament to the triumph of the pairings and proof that sparkling wine can be the thread upon which a whole meal is spun.

Charlie Trotter to close restaurant

2012-01-07T02:32:00.000-08:00

Pioneering chef Charlie Trotter is to close his eponymous Chicago restaurant, Charlie Trotter’s, in August after 25 years of service. As reported on thedrinksbusiness.com, Trotter made the announcement to diners on New Year’s Eve, insisting the move is a sabbatical to study philosophy and political theory. “I just had to put the flag in the sand and say I’ve got to go for this; otherwise, I never will," he said, adding, "If I don’t go for something while I’m in the prime of my life and I have the means to do it, well, why wouldn’t I?”

The 52-year-old plans to open a new restaurant after he finishes his studies, though remains tight-lipped about any further details. The Chicago-born chef fell in love with cooking while working in a restaurant during college. With little culinary training, he began working in various restaurants full-time age 23, opening Charlie Trotter’s just four years later.

Because America's dining scene has come so far in 25 years, it’s easy to forget what a pioneer Trotter was, especially in the Midwest. He was among the first to popularise tasting menus and was an early advocate for cooking with fresh, seasonal ingredients, offering vegetarian menus and even a raw menu for guests. Unafraid of controversy, in 2002 he took foie gras off his menu, but when the Chicago city council later passed a ban, he spoke out against it, arguing it wasn't a politician's job to legislate eating habits.

Trotter has also been a consistent champion for wine service, hiring and nurturing some of the top sommeliers in the industry. His 1,800-stong wine list, built on a cellar of more than 7,000 bottles, offers both the benchmark fine wines and smart buys. Trotter made a cameo appearance as an angry chef in the 1997 film My Best Friend’s Wedding starring Julia Roberts and Cameron Diaz.

Lafite '08 down 45% as fine wine prices fall

2012-01-06T02:04:00.000-08:00

The value of Lafite 2008 is down 45% on last year, as 2011 fine wine prices showed their most dramatic slide since 2008. As reported on the drinks business, according to Liv-ex, prices of the 100 top-traded wines fell by an average 22.5% between June and December last year – the steepest fall since the beginning of the recession nearly four years ago. Lafite ‘08 peaked in January 2011 at £14,043 a case, but was trading this month at £8,108, while Lafite 2009 has dropped 28% in value in the last six months, from £13,831 a case in July 2011 to £9,800 in December 2011.

Year to date prices for Lafite 2008 were already down 26% last August with the wine proving the worst performer in terms of price of the last 10 physical vintages from the estate. This is in stark contrast to October 2010, when the price of Lafite ’08 shot up by 20% overnight after it was announced bottles would be marked with the Chinese symbol for the number 8, regarded as lucky in China.

Meanwhile, the Live-ex Claret Chip, consisting of Bordeaux first growths from top vintages going back to the mid-‘80s was down 26% in the second half of 2011. The second wines of the first growths have also performed poorly, with Château Margaux’s Pavillon Rouge 2008 down by nearly 50%. Carruades de Lafite 2008 fared better, but still lost 29% of its case price. Though Carruades 2005 is holding up well, selling for £3,672 in June 2011 and £3,054 last month.

Bucking the trend are top second growths like Leoville-Las-Cases and Cos d’Estournel, which have maintained their value and outperformed the falling market. Outside first growth claret the picture is slightly rosier, with Burgundy’s Domaine de la Romanee Conti, Chateau d’Yquem and Super Tuscan Sassicaia the strongest brands in 2011.

Why the change? According to WineSociete China, China’s leading organisation for wine education, it can be put down to China’s money supply. In 2009, Chinese banks made almost 10 trillion yuan in new loans, expanding the country’s loan portfolio by a third. In 2010 they lent almost 8 trillion yuan, roughly twice as much as in 2008. Trillions of yuan, formerly locked up in bank reserves, flowed into the economy, leading Chinese consumers to put their rapidly depreciating currency into hard assets like fine wine.

Last year, money supply growth and lending in China fell sharply as Beijing put the brakes on asset and consumer price inflation. As lending has declined, so have sources of credit for many of China's local and privately owned enterprises. In an attempt to generate liquidity, fine wines are quietly being offered for sale by many Chinese collectors.

Champenois ditching flutes for wine glasses

2012-01-05T02:49:00.000-08:00

Champagne houses are moving away from using traditional flutes for their fizz in favour of white wine glasses, according to glassware manufacturer Georg Riedel. “The Champenois are starting to serve their sparklers in white wine glasses as the larger surface areas gives more pronounced aromas, complexity and a creamier texture,” Riedel told the drinks business.

“Flutes are too narrow and don’t allow the aroma and richness of the Champagne to shine as there isn’t enough air space,” Riedel added, revealing that flutes are often mistakenly filled to the top, leaving the wine no room to breathe. Ideally, a flute should only be half full, or, better still, a third full in order to release a Champagne’s aromatic potential,” he said.

In response to demand, Riedel has started making bespoke glasses for several Champagne houses and has developed a new sparkling wine glass more akin to a white wine glass. “Our new glasses don’t look anything like a traditional flute. They’re much bigger and rounder,” Riedel enthused.

Meanwhile, the Austrian has his sights firmly set on China, where he is keen to grow the Riedel brand. “China is a new market for us and our hopes are high for it. We’ve been established in Hong Kong for a while, but it’s time to move our marketing subsidiary to the mainland. “We want to get into the top hotels and restaurants in China, and start branching out into department stores,” he said.

Riedel is confident that the Chinese will embrace the idea of buying different glasses for different wines. “Contrary to what has been said, the Asian palate doesn’t differ from the Western palate. Wine is new to them, but they understand it. You start life as a milk drinker, then you evolve. An understanding of the complexities of wine comes with a certain age. It’s a celebration, and people love to toast in Asia.”

Hip-hop help sees Moscato sales soar in US

2012-01-04T02:40:00.000-08:00

Sales of Moscato are soaring in the US as hip-hop artists continue to name-check the low alcohol sweet wine in their songs. As reported on thedrinksbusiness.com, US Moscato sales grew more than 80% for the 52 weeks ending November 12, according to Nielsen, helping the wine to break out of its after-dinner niche. "The last thing I can remember that shot out of the cork like that was Pinot Noir after the film Sideways," said Danny Brager, vice president of Nielsen's beverage and alcohol division. “But the pop-culture inspired growth in Pinot Noir has been eclipsed by the rise of Moscato,” Brager added.

A year-on-year comparison shows sales of Moscato in America topping $300 million for 2011, more than triple what they were for 2009. With an average price of less than $10 per bottle, the varietal now accounts for 3% of total table wine sales in the US, up from 1% in 2009.

Moscato’s recent sales success among urban drinkers has been boosted by plugs in R&B and hip-hop songs by the likes of Kanye West, Ne-Yo, Lil’ Kim and Ab-Soul. West was one of the first to elevate Moscato's profile, serving Saracco Moscato d'Asti at a party in 2005 and mentioning the wine in a remix of the song Make Her Feel Good.

"Moscato is coming on strong, especially in the urban market," said New York-based wine consultant Lisa Carley. "The rise of Moscato and sweet red wines seems to indicate that Americans are getting more comfortable with wine in general. Because of that, they are drinking what they like as opposed to what they ‘should’ drink," Carley added.

The rising popularity of Moscato from entry-level brands like Sutter Home, Gallo and Yellowtail is leading to increased plantings of Muscat in California, Chile, Argentina, France and Spain. "Moscato is a good gateway wine for people that don't typically drink wine. It's sweet and it's not intimidating," said Megan Metcalf, editor of US trade publication Wine & Spirits Daily, adding, “People who would have drunk White Zinfandel are now drinking Moscato.”

Negotiating the wine list at Angelus

2012-01-02T00:02:00.001-08:00

Ordering a bottle of wine from a Bible-thick list can turn the coolest of customers into quivering wrecks. But help is at hand in the form of Thierry Tomasin, the ebullient, irreverent and unmistakably French owner of Angelus restaurant, a hidden jewel in a quiet corner of Lancaster Gate next to the Hyde Park stables. With 12 years as head sommelier at two Michelin-starred Le Gavroche under his belt, followed by a stint at Gordon Ramsay's Aubergine in Kensington, Tomasin is well versed in the language of wine.

Seductions school resumes with Tomasin describing sommeliers as "salesmen of pleasure" and suggesting that you can tell a lot about a woman's taste in wine by her taste in coffee. "Double espresso girls are likely to enjoy gutsy reds, while latte ladies will probably prefer a light white,” he offers. Debunking the myth that perfect food and wine matches exist, he calls for creativity – Sherry and soup anyone? Tomasin's approach to food pairing is unashamedly relaxed. He's a firm believer of picking a wine to suit your mood, rather than rigidly trying to marry the flavours on your plate with the aromas in your glass. To finish, Angelium NV makes a welcome reappearance, and is served with an achingly pretty rhubarb millefeuille, its lightly seared top recalling bonfire-toasted marshmallows.

As the petit fours do the rounds, Thierry tells us excitedly about his secret "love dictionary" – a guest book filled with musings from oft intoxicated diners. One of the entries from a female admirer involves melted chocolate and a desire to spread it. Moving swiftly on, he reminisces, almost wistfully, about his Le Gavroche days, and serving the Queen double G&Ts in the private dining room upstairs. “Her handbag was microscopic – barely big enough to house a lipstick,” he quips. If you want the Madonna anecdote, you'll have to book a spot at the dinner. Places are priced at £75 per person, which includes three courses and wines chosen by the scoundrel himself.

Julio Iglesias interview

2012-01-02T00:02:00.000-08:00

Julio Iglesias doesn’t do things by half. During his 42-year music career, the Madrid-born singer has sold more than 300 million albums in 14 different languages, making him among the top 10 best-selling musicians in history. Last year, the 66-year-old, who has reportedly slept with over 3,000 women, released album number 77, and he’s currently midway through a world tour – ‘It’s a great excuse to drink wines from different countries every night,’ he says, laughing.

His speech is littered with huge numbers – a million dollars here, 800 million pesetas there, and I quickly get the impression that Iglesias’ world is one in which money is no object. ‘I used to spend more than a million dollars a year on wine,’ he tells me, in a genuinely casual, rather than boastful way. The singer has bought so much wine over the years that he seems to have lost count of how many bottles he has in his three cellars in Spain, Miami and the Dominican Republic.

‘I’ve got about 5,000 top wines and hundreds of thousands of normal wines,’ he admits, without hyperbole. Generous with his plentiful stock, he gives away about 100 cases of wine to friends every year and thinks nothing of cracking open a bottle of Pétrus 1982 after a concert to share with his band. Isn’t it wasted on the uninitiated? ‘Not at all,’ he counters. ‘They’ve all become wine connoisseurs and have built cellars too. The vodka days are over!’

It was in the summer of ’82 that Iglesias tried to buy the acclaimed Ribera del Duero estate Vega Sicilia. ‘I was having dinner with friends in Madrid and it came up in conversation that Vega Sicilia was on the market for 800 million pesetas (around US$6m back then). I got on the phone to them the next morning, but it was too late.’ The winery had already been sold to a Venezuelan family, who went on to sell it to the Alvarez family, the current owners. ‘It wasn’t my lucky day, I guess,’ Iglesias says wistfully.

Vega Sicilia aside, he insists he’s not just a trophy collector – wine has shaped his outlook on life. ‘My understanding of life has become much stronger and clearer through my appreciation of wine,’ he says, describing spending those millions on wine in the ’80s as: ‘the best thing I ever did in my life’. Brought up in Madrid in the '50s by his doctor father, Iglesias got by in the early days by drinking ‘any old stuff from Valdepeñas’. In his late teens he played as a goalkeeper for Real Madrid football club, until a near fatal car accident in 1963 ended his sporting career. During his rehabilitation, to develop dexterity in his hands, he started playing the guitar and subsequently, writing music.

Iglesias’ wine epiphany was equally notable. In 1973 he was invited by Baroness Philippine de Rothschild – a big Iglesias fan – to a dinner party at her home in Paris after one of his concerts. ‘She asked me what I thought of the wine and I told her that I’d never tasted anything like it,’ Iglesias recalls with brio. ‘She summoned the butler to serve a second wine, this time in a decanter, which I later learned was Lafite 1961. It was the first time in my life I’d felt a wine all the way down to my toes. It worked its magic through my body and made me realise that wine had a lot more mystery and history than I had first thought’.

The memory of the Lafite lingered, sending Iglesias on a lifelong wine journey. He began picking up the odd case in the countries he toured in – reds in France, whites in Germany – and got seriously into collecting in 1978, after building a 4,000-bottle cellar in the Miami home he shares with his second wife and their five children. He grew his cellar by seeking out bargains at New York merchant Sherry Lehmann. ‘In the late ’70s you could still get hold of great 1947s and 1961s. The ’75s were coming onto the market and I started spending a lot of money on Bordeaux, buying up all the Pauillac, Pomerol, Graves and Margaux I could get my hands on. Before you can appreciate great Burgundy, you’ve got to cut your teeth on good Bordeaux’.

Outside of France, Iglesias collects Spanish icon wines from Rioja and Ribera del Duero, particularly (perhaps still longingly) Vega Sicilia, as well as Pesquera, Pingus and CVNE Imperial. ‘I’ve recently got much more interested in Spanish wines’, he tells me. ‘I love trying wines from lesser-known Spanish regions like Calatayud, Jumilla and Zamora’. He dips his toe in the New World via Australia, South Africa, California and Argentina, but his wine heartland is very much Bordeaux and Burgundy. ‘My latest obsession is Pinot Noir,’ he tells me excitedly. ‘Romanée-Conti from a good year is absolutely unforgettable. When made well it’s so approachable young. You don’t have to wait for it, which is great, because I don’t have too much time.'

Article originally published in Decanter magazine

Ones to Watch in 2012

2011-12-29T00:02:00.000-08:00

thedrinksbusiness.com brings you a quintet of rising stars set to impact upon consumer luxury wine and spirits spend in 2012.

Peter Sisseck, Age: 49

Danish-born Sisseck is the creator and owner of cult Spanish wine Pingus (from Ribera del Duero), which has been ranked as the highest scoring wine by Robert Parker for the last five years according to the Liv-ex Power 100. Parker declared Pingus’ first vintage (1995) “one of the greatest and most exciting wines I have ever tasted.” No more than 8,500 bottles of are produced each year, which sell for more than £400 a piece. Sisseck’s second wine, Flor de Pingus, is also proving popular with Parkerites. The great Dane’s uncle, Peter Vinding-Diers, transformed the quality of white Graves in the ‘80s, perhaps explaining why Sisseck has branched out to St Emilion, where he runs the biodynamic estate Château de Rocheyron.

Lady Gaga, Age: 25

The eccentric singer topped this year’s Forbes celebrity list, with an estimated net worth of US$90m. Representing the power of celebrity endorsement in the luxury wine and spirits sphere, I could have chosen a number of world-famous stars, but Gaga made the cut for being the most talked about and photographed celebrity of the moment. Often tweeting about her love of wine to her 16m Twitter followers, the Italian American songstress could start a luxury drinks trend at the drop of one of her Philip Tracey hats. She hasn’t yet, but she could.

Yao Ming, Age: 31

Last month, the Chinese NBA basketball star announced plans to release “Yao Ming” wine in China at £384 a bottle. The Shanghai-born sports star, worth more than US$65 million, has ventured into wine just months after retiring from basketball to meet a growing thirst for wine in his home country. Yao Family Wines use grapes from six vineyards in the Napa Valley, though Ming also owns a winery in Napa. The first batch of “Yao Ming” is a 2009 Napa Cabernet Sauvignon. Magnums of the wine are expected to sell for £6,000 at an upcoming charity auction in China.

Erik Lorincz, Age: 31

Last year, the Slovakian-born head bartender at the newly reopened American Bar at The Savoy, out-mixed, out-stirred and out-shook 9,000 bartenders to win the Diageo Reserve World Class Bartender of the Year competition, leading him to be dubbed “the best bartender in the world” by the Wall Street Journal. This year he was crowned International Bartender of the Year at the prestigious Tales of the Cocktail 5th Annual Spirits Awards in New Orleans. Before The American Bar, Lorincz was working his shaker at The Connaught Bar. Catch him in the capital while you still can...

Wu Fei, Age: 41

The general manager of the wine and spirits branch of COFCO, China’s largest oils and food trader, plans to aggressively expand the company’s vineyard ownership overseas on the heels of two recent purchases, with sights set on Australia and the United States. COFCO has been expanding internationally to diversify its portfolio and compete with international brands. It purchased Château Viaud in Lalande de Pomerol for US$15m in February. Fei is in charge of umbrella brand The Great Wall, China’s most famous wine brand worth €1.4 billion, which sells 120m bottles a year.

Wine on tap thriving in US

2011-12-26T00:02:00.000-08:00

A growing number of US restaurants are starting to serve wine on tap from kegs. As reported on thedrinksbusiness.com, daring venues in San Francisco, LA, Las Vegas, Atlanta, New York and Detroit are all in on the act. The reusable, five-gallon kegs, holding the equivalent of 25 bottles of wine, store the product for more than five months, keeping by-the-glass wines fresher for longer. Pumped out from the keg, the wine is never exposed to oxygen, making the last glass as fresh as the first, thus creating zero waste.

Leading the wine by the keg charge in New York are Charles Bieler (pictured) and Bruce Schneider, founders of The Gotham Project, which makes a Riesling in keg from the east side of Seneca Lake in the Finger Lakes. Supplying to the Grand Central Oyster Bar in New York City’s Grand Central Station, the Red Rooster in Harlam and Terroir Tribeca in Manhattan, the dynamic duo are dedicated to changing the way Americans drink wine.

“We’re not just selling a concept, we’re selling a better glass of wine,” Bieler tells me. I wanted to do something locally. I was always amazed by the trend of eating local, but when it came to drinking local, people sort of ignored it.” Now 25 New York restaurants carry Gotham Project Riesling and an equal number outside the state have taken it on.

“We chose Riesling because I love it, but more importantly because it’s the wine New York State does best,” admits Bieler, who is working on putting a sparkling wine in keg. We want to offer wines that can compete with the best in the world at their price point.”

The flamboyant winemaker, who once traversed the US in a pink Cadillac wearing a pink tuxedo to promote his father’s Provence rosé, thinks Stateside wineries and retailers will jump on the keg bandwagon once they see it working in the on-trade. Bieler is toying with the idea of bringing the wine in keg concept to London. I could see wine on tap working in laid back wine-focused venues with extensive by-the-glass offerings, like Brawn, Terroirs, Vinoteca, Artisan & Vine and 28-50. Perhaps we’ll be drinking English sparkling on tap by the end of 2012?

Charles Bieler photo (c) James Estrin – The New York Times/Redux

Wine in cans selling out Stateside

2011-12-23T09:22:00.000-08:00

Young Americans are developing a thirst for wine in cans, according to Ben Parsons, owner of hip Denver-based urban winery The Infinite Monkey Theorem. Local retailers have been selling out of Parsons’ US$6.99 Sparkling Black Muscat in a 250ml can, emblazoned with the brand’s eye-catching monkey logo. The British-born winemaker launched the can last July with a reworking of the iconic Barack Obama blue-and-red “Hope” poster, with the tag line: “Yes, we canned.”

“I’ve always wanted to put wine in a can,” Parsons told thedrinksbusiness.com. “They’re user-friendly, recyclable, and cut through the pretension of wine. It’s a perfect fit for the brand.” Targeting the can at Millennial drinkers and generation X’s aged 21 to 40 has paid off. “It’s ideal for music venues, and I’m in talks with Virgin Atlantic to try and get it onto their in-flight wine list,” says Parsons, who admits the wine won’t age: “It’s got a one-year shelf life like any other can.”

The entrepreneurial winemaker is planning on going national and would like to take the can internationally in the near future, saying: “I’d love to see it in London nightclubs and vending machines in Tokyo, why not?” The stumbling block is its 250ml size, which is an illegal size for selling alcohol in some US states. “I’m petitioning to allow 250ml cans in all US states, it’s a crazy law,” says Parsons, who is about to unleash a canned sparking Syrah and Pinot Gris onto the market.

Surprisingly, given its peony pink colour and sweet flavour, Parsons has found the wine to be a huge hit with men, much to his delight. “I want to change people’s perception of wine and make them see it as an everyday drink. I’d like to see more producers put their wines in cans so it becomes more acceptable,” he says. The first US winemaker to offer wine in cans was forward thinking film director Francis Ford Coppola, who started selling sparkling wine Sophia Blanc de Blancs (named after his daughter), in hot pink 187ml cans in 2004.

Having enjoyed success in the US, Parsons is considering upping sticks and heading back to London to set up an urban winery somewhere suitably hip like Hackney or Shoreditch. “I could source top quality fruit from all over Europe and make a bunch of different wines. I’d like to open a casual dining restaurant beside the winery selling my wine on tap from kegs,” Parsons enthuses. If anyone can get Londoners drinking wine from a tap, he can.

Dom Pérignon 2003 launched in five cities

2011-12-19T10:01:00.001-08:00

Last week, as reported on thedrinksbusiness.com, Champagne giant Dom Pérignon hosted five simultaneous international events in London, Hong Kong, Paris, New York and Tokyo, to launch its 2003 vintage – a controversial release due to the extreme heat of the year. With each event linked by satellite, chef de cave Richard Geoffroy introduced the wine Star Wars-style via hologram, appearing as an electric blue spectral figure and answering questions on the vintage from the five cities in turn.

“Everyone was expecting a very powerful, sun-filled and rapidly maturing wine – a real challenge for the creation of Dom Pérignon,” Geoffroy told us. “It was a risk, which may be rewarded now. It’s at the heart of the house’s values – we’re committed to vintage Champagne. My wish is for Dom Pérignon 2003 to remain one of the greatest examples of the vintage in the history of Champagne.”

Guests in London gathered at the über swish Phillips de Pury auction house in St James’s, where black-and-white stills of the Dom Pérignon vineyards in Hautvilliers were projected onto the whitewashed walls, along with an up-to-the-second Twitter feed from invitees across the five cities. In between sips of the freshly released ’03, we were treated to whipped truffled egg, caviar on beetroot jelly, and seared foie gras.

The 2003 vintage left an indelible mark on the region. After a cold, harsh winter, the initial warmth of spring proved deceptive. On 11 April a severe frost destroyed up to 75% of the Côte des Blancs Chardonnay crop. The unseasonal spring was followed by a heat wave as the region experienced its hottest summer for 53 years, resulting in the earliest Champagne harvest since 1822.

Undeterred, Geoffroy embraced the challenge: “At no moment in time was there any question of giving up. Instead, we seized the opportunity to create the 2003 vintage,” he said, adding, “Intensity is the signature 2003. It’s unique and paradoxical, hovering between austerity and generosity. It has tremendous ageing potential, but is also very enjoyable now as it’s so expressive.” Commenting on the 2011 vintage, Geoffroy was less upbeat: “2011 was less spectacular than 2003, it will be hard to predict how it will mature.” Dom Pérignon 2003 will be available in the UK from February 2012 with an RRP of £120.

Moët 1911 on sale in Harrods for £65,000

2011-12-15T01:53:00.001-08:00

Stuck what to buy the man who has everything for Christmas? As reported on thedrinksbusiness.com, a six-bottle case of Moët & Chandon Grand Vintage Collection 1911 has gone on sale in luxury London department store Harrods for £65,000 – just under £11,000 per bottle. The famed Champagne house has released 11 six-bottle cases of the 100-year-old wine – disgorged last January – with each being offered to a different market around the world. One of the cases was auctioned at a gala dinner in Shanghai in September, raising US$100,000 for charity.

Noted by the then Moët cellar master as a “memorable” year, 1911’s conditions were near perfect. As the vintage matured, it soon took its place as one of the house’s most distinguished Champagnes. Describing the wine, Moët & Chandon chef de cave Benoît Gouez gushed: “It’s a stunning Champagne – an inspiration. “I’m astounded by the fact that, after a hundred years, it overflows with vitality and energy, and boasts both impressive depth and amazing freshness.”

According to Gouez, the nose contains: “notes of brioche, candied fruits and panettone, with intense middle notes of mocha, crème brûlée and honey, and hints of leather and tobacco,” while the body is “supple, velvety and perfectly balanced.” Champagne authority Tom Stevenson said of the wine: “The nose is still floral and fruity and after a century, it’s still bubbly on the palate. It’s a superb vintage Champagne, both elegantly mature and deliciously lively.”

The £65,000 case, housed in a chic black holdall, has gone on display in one of Harrods’ Christmas windows. Far from the optimum storage conditions for such precious bottles of liquid history, at least we can all be afforded a glimpse of the 100-year-old treasure before it’s stashed away in a billionaire’s cellar, or, even worse, cracked open by a hedge funder on New Year’s Eve.

Wine Academy of Spain denies accusations against Campo and Miller

2011-12-13T07:15:00.001-08:00

As reported on thedrinksbusiness.com, The Wine Academy of Spain (TWAS) has issued a statement categorically denying the accusations against Pancho Campo MW (pictured) and Jay Miller that Spanish wineries were being charged up to €40,000 by Campo for a visit from Miller. “The Wine Academy of Spain never requested from any wineries monies for the visits of Jay Miller or for tasting their wines,” reads the statement, signed by Campo, president and founder of the academy. “All the expenses for Jay Miller to travel to Spanish wine regions to taste and review wines were covered by The Wine Advocate, including his transportation, accommodation, meals and any other related expenses,” the statement continues.

According to Campo, the only occasion when fees had been charged were for “the organisation, setup and management of events that included seminars, conferences, masterclasses and guided tastings, which were open to the public,” but that “None of these fees were ever paid to The Wine Advocate.” Campo asserts that it was made clear to all Wine Academy of Spain staff that wineries could not pay fees for Jay Miller to taste their wines on behalf of The Wine Advocate, and that Miller was not allowed to accept hospitality at restaurants or gifts.

Earlier this year, TWAS organised a wine show in Jumilla with the Association of Wine from the Region of Murcia (Asevin) featuring a masterclass by Miller. Before contracts were signed, Asevin sent out an email trying to raise money from the wineries, contrary to the stipulations in the proposed agreement. According to Campo, “At that point, TWAS put the event on hold until the wineries were informed that they could not be asked for any kind of payment for possible visits and for submitting samples.” Campo is preparing to take legal action “in order to obtain the necessary measures against persons and publications having published information potentially damaging the reputation and the honour of The Wine Academy of Spain.”

Jay Miller resigned from Robert Parker’s bi-monthly publication The Wine Advocate last week to return to wine consulting, lecturing and wine retail. Miller denied his stepping down had anything to do with the Spain debacle. “Some may believe my stepping down is in response to my critics, nothing could be further from the truth. I have never accepted (or request) fees for visiting wine regions or wineries,” he said.

Both Miller and Parker indicated this was a voluntary departure on Miller's part, with Parker referencing the tediousness of tasting mediocre wines that can "burn out the best of us,” adding, "change is never easy, but often essential.” Miller's Spain, Chile, and Argentina responsibilities will be taken over by UK-based Neal Martin, while coverage of Oregon wines will go to David Schildnecht.

English fizz & oysters at Wright Brothers

2011-12-13T04:02:00.000-08:00

Wine and the City and American wine writer Panos Kakaviatos taste English sparkler Gusbourne Estate Blanc de Blancs 2006, made in Kent, with a platter of Duchy of Cornwall oysters at Wright Brothers in Borough Market on a buzzing Saturday morning before Christmas.

Hawksmoor Guildhall

2011-12-09T04:14:00.001-08:00

As the home of the City of London, Guildhall has been the centre of City government since the 12^th century, and still serves as the City’s ceremonial centre. Recently discovered remains of a Roman amphitheatre indicate that the site was significant as far back as Roman times. Having survived the Great Fire of London, it is the only pre-1666 secular stone structure still standing in the City. The gothic building served as a base for the Lord Mayor in an era when mayor rivaled the monarch for influence and prestige. Trials in the hall have included those of Thomas Cranmer, Lady Jane Grey and Henry Garnet (in connection to the Gunpowder Plot). Fast forward to late 2011, and the team behind Hawksmoor Spitalfields and Seven Dials have cleverly chosen to open their third steakhouse in the suit-filled, BMW-lined, cash-rich City of London, housing Hawksmoor Guildhall in a Grade II listed building inches away from the Guildhall’s soaring ceilings.

The latest addition to the Hawksmoor family is the largest of the trio, able to accommodate 170 covers. A circular sapphire stained glass window prettifies the main entrance, where a sweeping staircase leads you down into the expansive space furnished with chocolate brown leather seats, polished wooden floors and walls lined with wood panelling, which give the impression you’re aboard a vintage sea liner. Reinforcing the nautical theme are porthole lights, a low ceiling and art deco light fittings modelled on the ones used in the Titanic. Specimen cabinets from the Natural History Museum populate the room, while tables have been pilfered from school science departments.

Beef dominates proceedings, with a six-course tasting menu the star attraction. The affable waiting staff sport rolled up checked shirts, fitted jeans and goofy grins. It’s a Tuesday night and the room is abuzz with animated chatter. To my left, a table of sharp-suited businessmen who look like they’ve even nothing but T-bone steak their entire lives, gesticulate wildly with their meaty hands. I kick off my meat feast with a duo of aged whites by the glass, impressed to see both Rioja stalwart López de Heredia Viña Gravonia Crianza Blanco 2001 and Lebanon’s finest, Château Musar 2003 on the list. Two generous glasses of liquid gold are brought to the table, the López de Heredia showing the signature nuttiness of aged white Rioja, while the Musar has a perfumed nose of dried quince and exotic fruits, which pairs perfectly with a sextet of saline Dorset native oysters. Clean and direct, they cleanse the palate in preparation for the pleasures of the flesh.

As inseparable on a 2011 menu as Ginger Rogers and Fred Astaire, a second starter of woody salt-baked beetroot and crumbly Childwickbury goat’s cheese dances across the palate. For the main event, I default to the waiter, who, displaying an encyclopedic knowledge of each cut, talks me through the flavour nuances of each. I settle on a 600g sirloin, and, feeling primeval, ask for it rare. The Flintstones-sized steak is the largest piece of meat I’ve ever encountered. So huge as to be rendered cartoon-like, it could have fed a family of five. Determined to do it justice, I grab my knife and fork and venture into its soft interior.

There’s something about eating a steak that unleashes the inner caveman (or woman). A thick, bloodied slab of meat brings you face-to-face with your carnivorous nature. Attacking the cut and devouring the rare meat links you to your Neanderthal ancestors who hunted to survive. It’s inherently masculine; the ultimate Alpha Male meal, and the polar opposite of a pretentious organic salad filled with frippery. There is something honest and pure about enjoying a steak; a reaffirmation of our status at the top of the food chain.

Aside from its arresting size, the sirloin is moist, tender, juicy (from the fat), and well seasoned. Perfectly pink inside, it has a smoky edge and is so supremely cooked, and such a pure expression of itself, that the accompanying béarnaise and bone marrow sauces hinder rather than enhance the flavour. A side of piping hot triple cooked chips held the crown of the best in London for all of a week, until a visit to Dinner by Heston Blumenthal knocked them from their perch. Hawksmoor’s homemade tomato sauce, served in a retro glass bottle, is given a playful twist by the addition of fennel.

Excited to see Pulenta Malbec 2008 on the wine list, on asking for a bottle, I am told they have run out, so opt instead for Luigi Bosca Gala 1 Malbec 2008, which charms with its fragrant nose of raspberries and plums. Voluptous, and with an alluring sweetness, the fine-grained tannins cut through the fat in the steak, while searing acidity adds wonderful freshness. Dessert presents an array of enticing options, from sticky toffee pudding to an old school popcorn sundae. I go for the peanut butter shortbread with salted caramel ice cream. A dynamic and decadent duo, the shortbread arrives as a parcel, its interior revealing molten peanut butter sauce.

The Hawksmoor team have struck gold with Guildhall, the word fittingly deriving from the Anglo-Saxon “gild”, meaning payment. Building on the success of its older siblings, the new kid on the chopping block has an electric atmosphere, refreshingly unstuffy staff, and fleshy food that satiates even the strongest of carnal desires.

Hawksmoor Guildhall, 10-12 Basinghall Street, London EC2V 5BQ; Tel: +44 (0)20 7397 8120. A meal for two with wine costs around £130.

Monty Waldin and Dr Richard Smart

2011-12-07T00:02:00.000-08:00

Biodynamic winemaker and writer Monty Waldin and global consultant on viticultural methods Dr Richard Smart talk to Wine and the City about the pros and cons of organics and biodynamics before a debate on the subject at the WSET headquarters in London. Waldin argues for the motion, with Smart speaking against the promotion of organics and biodynamics in the UK wine trade.

Casa Batavia

2011-12-01T00:02:00.000-08:00

“Italians are particularly prone to the comfort and reassuring nostalgia of food. They eat with a childish verve and enthusiasm, and exuberant remembrance of their homes, their mothers, their lovers and their Vespas,” so says AA Gill in his review of Casa Batavia in last Sunday’s Style magazine in The Sunday Times. The Vespa reference is a national stereotype too far, but I get what Gill means. Italians have a love of food unequalled throughout the world. They worship at the altar of food, the architecture of their day built around what they are going to eat.

Nicola Batavia is a self-confessed “eggspert”. I met the chef a month ago at a Castello Banfi dinner at Camden curio Gilgamesh. His arrival at the table was met with much fanfare and clapping of hands, like the returning of the prodigal son. Unfamiliar with his oeuvre, I felt in the presence of a world-famous celebrity that had somehow got through my net. Peering through a pair of neon orange specs, he tells me, in a Dalínian fashion, of his beatific reverence for eggs – of their mystic duality: the hard and the soft, the white and the yolk; the eternal conundrum. Mention is made of a truffled egg dish, which recalls treasured memories of Spuntino’s truffled egg on toast. Noting my enthusiasm, Batavia invites me to try the dish when he’s next in town.

The Michelin-starred chef found fame in Italy with his Ristorante Birichin in Turin. He now has a regular spot on Italian TV, a book, wine line and olive oil to his name. This summer, he teamed up with seasoned London restaurateur Paolo Boschi to launch Casa Batavia on Kensington Church Street. White walls, black leather chairs and polished wooden floors lend an air of austerity to the space, which is softened by playful graphic prints by Italian cartoonist Osvaldo Cavandoli. The interiors are so pared down they border on corporate, but a glass-domed roof lends much-needed light to the proceedings. Tablecloths are a tasteful beige, mirroring the hues of the ladies who lunch that populate the room.

Boschi is so old school you couldn’t invent him. He takes my (beige) coat and sits me at the window table, in full view of the Notting Hillbillies passing by. Our feast gets off to a good start with a cupful of crunchy, lithe grissini sticks served with Batavia’s bright green, grassy, Umbrian olive oil. With it we’re served a generous-sized Riedel glass of Gancia Alta Langa Brut 2007. Aged for three years in oak, the northern Italian sparkler glints gold in the glass, offering a rich and toasty nose of honey and hazelnuts that could give Bollinger a run for its money.

We’re then presented with a silver slither of skate wing served with capers, tomatoes and olives. Soft as swan’s-down, the fish is tremendously tender, and enhanced by the autumnal accoutrements. The embodiment of Batavia’s “modern Italian” cooking philosophy, there are no foams or temperature tricks, just simple, seasonal ingredients. Then it arrives. I can smell it coming. The famous truffled egg. Hopes are high. Poached, it looks beautiful in the dish, nestled in a pond of potato fondu, a solitary sage leaf balancing on top like a fallen feather. The egg is expertly cooked, its orange yolk oozing into the cheese pool below. Rich from the truffle oil, it’s decadent, delightful and comforting beyond belief – what baby food would taste like in heaven.

To follow is a trio of oxtail ravioli blanketed with a snowflake-shaped shaving of Parmesan. Packing a flavour punch, the Parmesan has the intensity of a fresh cheese straw and works well with the tender ox meat. Astutely autumnal, Batavia is spookily in tune with the seasons, like a culinary weather vane. To match, the sommelier suggests Andrea Oberto Giada Barbera d’Alba 2005. An attractive bright ruby, the nose bursts with black cherry, plum and forest fruits. Growing in intensity on the palate, blackcurrant notes give way to a liquorice finish.

Mid-pour, the affable young wine waiter tells us he’s from Narni in Umbria, explaining that C.S. Lewis named his imaginary land of Narnia after the Umbrian hilltown, having stumbled across it in an atlas as a child. The final flourish before dessert is Batavia’s signature dish: pork tonnato in a rustic tuna sauce, latticed with courgette and carrot. Usually made with cold cuts of veal, the juicy medallion of hot roast pork loin is textbook. Dessert doesn’t reach the highs of the main event, though a bowl of molten chili chocolate doused in Amaretto lifts the spirits, while a Lavazza espresso from a bespoke machine imported from Italy delivers an invigorating and smooth caffeine kick. Judging from earlier reviews, the Haribo fried egg sweets presented with the bill have been wisely replaced with almond-filled biscotti.

Though heaving on my visit, Batavia made the effort to talk to each customer, gauging their needs and tweaking their order accordingly. You’d never get that level of service in Soho or Mayfair. My only criticism is that dishes are delivered at warp speed – we were served five in under an hour, giving us little time to luxuriate in the memory of what we’d eaten before we were onto the next course. With the pace of life accelerating, it’s more important than ever to be able to take your time over a meal and let the memory of each dish solidify in the mind before moving on, otherwise we’re just refueling.

World's first paper wine bottle

2011-11-28T00:02:00.000-08:00

Wine and the City talks to entrepreneur Martin Myerscough, inventor of the world's first paper wine bottle (set to launch in a UK supermarket early next year), about where the idea came from, how the bottle works, its green credentials, and why he thinks he'll win wine snobs round.

Suka at Sanderson

2011-11-25T00:02:00.000-08:00

Much has been made of the pop-up restaurant craze blazing an untraceable trail through London, piquing the curiosity of gung-ho diners with its catch me if you can playfulness. So I was keen to check out Suka’s pop-up effort at its Sanderson outpost. I remember the restaurant’s former incarnation, Spoon, fondly. It was there where, as a food novice, I was first introduced to the delights of foie gras, which arrived in its seared guise atop a perfectly pink fillet steak. Perhaps loyal to that life changing experience and introduction to fine dining, I never returned once it became Suka.

Embracing the trend for fleeting eateries, Suka has flown in Malaysian chef Ahmad Shuib for three months in a bid to usher the restaurant back to its street food roots. Priced lower than the standard Suka menu, the street food offering (available until late January) is based around small sharing plates. Bypassing the Long Bar, with its curious one-eyed stalls, my friend and I are seated outside in the covered courtyard, which, with heaters blaring and dance music pumping, feels more like an Ibizan chill-out lounge than a Mayfair restaurant midwinter.

We begin with two tiny cups of traditional lemongrass tea served cold with brown sugar, inspired by the infusions Shuib’s mother used to make, which both cleanses and invigorates the palate. Moving on to something with more bite, I order a thirst-quenching cinnamon and apple Martini from the Malaysian Classics menu, which is the perfect marriage of sharp and sweet. The almost uncomfortably helpful waitress suggests we order three dishes each to share, kicking off with juicy jumbo Satay prawns marinated in lemongrass and turmeric. Slightly charred from the grill, their smokiness works well with the turbocharged peanut sauce.

Next to arrive is the Sotong Goreng crispy squid with coriander, ginger and green peppercorns that explode unapologetically on the tongue. The crispy shells reveal butter soft squid, so moreish, we devour the entire bowl in under a minute. Though there is little time to mourn the loss, as a steaming bowl of Laska Johor expectantly awaits our spoons. Its fresh crab and creamy coconut contents warms my insides, but the accompanying noodles look suspiciously like spaghetti from a packet. One of the most impressive dishes is Kai Lan – a modest side order of Shrek-green steamed broccoli with shitake mushrooms and sesame. The pleasingly crunchy broccoli pair well with the unctuous mushrooms and nutty sesame.

Taking a breather from the culinary marathon, I refresh my tastebuds with a Sweet Thing cocktail, muddled with strawberries, vanilla and apple. Bright pink and tooth-tinglingly sweet, it’s soothing and nostalgic – like something Shirley Temple would sip in a Sunday, the alcohol all but hidden behind the strawberries and cream. Born to be mild, the main event – Kapitan Kambing lamb and coconut curry is too hot for me to handle, but we were forewarned of its fiery nature. Much more appealing is Char Kway Teow, wok fried flat rice noodles with my faithful friends, king prawns. Silky smooth, gently spiced and satisfyingly savoury, it disappears quickly from its dish.

I somehow manage to find space before dessert for some seriously sexy slithers of barbequed pork belly slathered in soy, honey and hoisin. A standout dish, the comforting morsels are baby soft and packed with flavour, the sweetness of the sauce never cloying. Though decidedly un-Malaysian, I opt for the apple tart for dessert. The size of a small planet, it arrives drenched in caramel sauce and orbited by an accompanying ball of vanilla ice cream. Replete, I penetrate the tart’s epicentre but am unable to demolish it entirely. At two courses for £19 and three for £23, Suka’s street food lunch menu offers impressive value, and a glimpse into an exotic, spice-filled world.

Cheval des Andes at Villa d'Este

2011-11-23T00:02:00.000-08:00

Wine and the City tastes two Argentinian gems: Terrazas de los Andes Afincado Single Vineyard Malbec 2007 and Cheval des Andes 2007 with estate manager Hervé Bernie-Scott at Villa d'Este on Lake Como during the World Wine Symposium 2011.

Foraging with Mark Hix

2011-11-20T00:02:00.000-08:00

I’m in a tiny dolls house of a hotel with an ice pink façade, built on a slope by the roadside in Lyme Regis. Barely mid-afternoon, it’s already dark, and the wind is howling outside like an untamed beast, causing my window to crash against itself, as if out of sympathy for the giant waves in the distance, cascading up the harbour. Rain lashes relentlessly, the cool air from the drafty window filling my room with a ghostly chill. I feel like Emily St. Aubert in The Mysteries of Udolpho, scared to open my wardrobe for fear of what I might find.

Earlier that day I’d braved the wind-swept beach in search of sea creatures to cook. A group of us had taken the train from London, leaving behind bright blue skies for a tempestuous Jurassic Coast, shrouded in gray. We’d descended upon the “Pearl of Dorset” to forage with Bridport-born celebrity chef Mark Hix, who splits his time between London and Lyme Regis, home to his Hix Oyster & Fish House. Stepping off the train into the rain, we dump our bags at the Mariners hotel, don Wellington boots, and weave our way down to the beach.

The unrelenting wind makes it impossible to get near the sea, which would have gobbled us up without spitting us out, so we have to make do with what’s growing between the pebbles, which includes sea spinach, sea kale, sea cabbage, sea purslane, and my favourite, the spicy, celery-like rock samphire. Shakespeare referred to the dangerous practice of collecting rock samphire from cliffs in King Lear: "Half-way down, Hangs one that gathers samphire; dreadful trade!" Munching on a sprig, I begin my ascent to Hix’s hilltop restaurant, prodded up the hill in my soporific state by fellow hack Ben Norum’s umbrella.

Safely ensconced in Hix’s hideaway, we refuel on Talisker-laced hot toddies, dispensed into copper cups by master mixologist Nick Strangeway. Hix launches into a pep talk about the joys of foraging, handing round mushrooms he’d picked before the rain hit, including the ominously titled “Trumpets of Death”. We then dine like kings on deliciously fresh seafood platters dotted with lobsters, oysters, razor clams, muscles and jumbo prawns, followed by a meaty fillet of Torbay silver mullet accessorised with cockles in their shells and a forest of foraged seashore vegetables. Dessert reaches a decadent crescendo with a Talisker-drenched walnut tart with Dorset clotted cream, which matches wonderfully with accompanying drams of Talisker 10-year-old and 18-year-old. Glinting gold in their glasses, both have a powerful nose of peat-smoke, pepper, citrus and toffee, lifted by salty, sea air notes.

The next morning, the landscape had transformed. I awoke to the sound of birds chirping, and a view of a calm coastline welcoming the rising sun, piercing through the clouds. The sky was blue, the sea unmoving. It felt like a different place. I sat on the window ledge taking in its beauty for a minute or two, transfixed by the tranquility. How much my horizon had changed in a day. At breakfast, I learnt that Beatrix Potter had stayed in the hotel aged 17, during a visit that served as the inspiration for The Tale of Little Pig Robinson, which, though her last published book, was one of the first to have been written. Having never heard of the book, I chanced upon a copy at an antiques fair a week later. Dipping into it, the pages were interspersed with illustrations of the Lyme Regis coastline, bobbing with boats.