At a recent dinner at the much-hyped steakhouse CUT at 45 Park Lane, I caught up with the lovely Laurie Hook, chief winemaker of Beringer Vineyards in Napa Valley, California, to talk about about the importance of the UK as an export market, the foie gras ban in California, Moscato madness in the US, and whether being a female winemaker has been a challenge in such a male dominated industry.
Friday, 31 August 2012
Thursday, 30 August 2012
Brad Pitt to serve own rosé wine at wedding
Hollywood hunk Brad Pitt is to serve one of his own
wines at his wedding to actress Angelina Jolie this September, db.com reports. Among the wines hand-picked
by Pitt for the reception will be Provençal rosé Pink Floyd, produced at Pitt
and Jolie’s Château Miraval in Côtes de Provence, which dates from
pre-Roman times.
The wine is so named as rock band Pink Floyd recorded
part of their iconic album The Wall at
the château, and reportedly became fond of the pink drop during their stay. The
estate was home to Studio Miraval in the ‘70s, created by Jazz pianist Jacques
Loussier, where everyone from Sting and Sade to The Cranberries came to record
music.
The regions of Bordeaux, Burgundy and Champagne will
also feature in the wedding wine line-up, along with one wine from Germany. A
source told The Sun: “Brad’s cellar
boasts some incredibly rare wines and rivals those of some of the best
connoisseurs in Europe. He’s always had a keen interest in wine and did his
wine steward’s course this year.”
The Oxford Wine Company website describes the 2011
vintage of Pink Floyd as “a complex rosé with red berry, strawberry
and red cherry fruit underpinned by crisp minerality and tight structure. The
13.5% wine, a blend of old vine Cinsault and Grenache, is bottled under cork.
Château Miraval is set among 400 hectares of land, 75 of
which are planted with vines on a mixture of clay and chalk soil. In addition
to Pink Floyd, the estate produces a white made from Rolle and a red made from
Syrah, Grenache and Cabernet Sauvignon. The château has certified organic
vineyards in Côtes de Provence and Côteaux Varois.
Pitt and Jolie plan to tie the knot in September with
only close family and friends present. Pitt has been left to do the majority of
the wedding planning. In May, it was reported that Brad Pitt is to star in the film adaptation of The Billionaire’s Vinegar, a book by Benjamin Wallace on the fake Thomas Jefferson bottles
affair.
Wednesday, 29 August 2012
LVMH files lawsuit against Ace of Spades
Luxury goods giant LVMH has filed a false-advertising
lawsuit in Manhattan Federal Court against Armand de Brignac Champagne, db.com reports. According to The New York Post, the makers of Dom Pérignon
and Moët & Chandon filed a suit last Friday that seeks to put a stop to
Armand de Brignac’s claim that it is “rated the number one Champagne in the
world.”
Moët Hennessy USA believes the Champagne house “is
intentionally misleading consumers” about the quality of its fizz, which
includes Armand de Brignac Brut Gold NV, affectionately known as Ace of Spades.
The suit states that the Brut Gold NV is the only of Armand de Brignac’s cuvées
to be rated number one by Finnish Champagne expert Essi Avellan MW’s FINE
Champagne Magazine, “and that rating occurred in 2010.”
“Since then, Armand de Brignac Brut Gold NV has fared
much worse in that periodical’s testing, rated number 23 in 2011, and number 22
in 2012,” court papers charge. In addition to barring the company from using the
“number one” rating, the suit seeks unspecified damages for unfair competition
and all of Armand de Brignac’s profits from “its false and misleading
advertisement.”
A favourite among hip-hop artists including Jay Z,
Kanye West, Chris Brown and Drake, a Nebuchadnezzar of Armand de Brignac Brut
Gold worth an estimated £80,000 was brought to Usain Bolt’s VIP table at Movida
nightclub in London earlier this month after the Jamaican sprinter helped smash
the world record for the 4x10o-metre relay at the London 2012 Olympics.
Monday, 27 August 2012
Red wine could keep elderly on their feet
Another good reason to enjoy a glass of red a day – resveratrol,
the compound found in red wine grape skins, could help to improve balance and
mobility in seniors, research has found. As reported on db.com, the findings, presented to the
National Meeting and Exposition of the American Chemical Society, could lead to
the development of natural products to help protect elderly people against life-threatening
falls.
Researchers fed mice a diet containing resveratrol
for eight weeks, and measured their ability to navigate a steel mesh balance
beam. In the beginning, the elderly mice had difficulty, but after four weeks
they made fewer mistakes and had similar balance to the younger mice.
Dr Jane Cavanaugh from Duquesne University in
Pittsburgh, who lead the study, said it appears resveratrol undoes free radical
damage and helps cells survive. "Our study suggests that a natural
compound like resveratrol could decrease some of the motor deficiencies that
are seen in our ageing population," she said.
"And that would therefore increase an
ageing person's quality of life and decrease their risk of hospitalisation due
to slips and falls,” she added. Despite the positive breakthrough, a 150 pound
person would need around 700 small glasses of wine a day to absorb enough resveratrol to get any beneficial effects.
Cavanaugh is investigating how to develop similar manmade drugs that mimic the
effects of resveratrol while being more readily absorbed by the body. She is
also trying to determine how much resveratrol actually enters the brain. Falls
are the leading cause of injury related death among the over 65s. There
are currently no treatments to help balance in healthy older adults.
Thursday, 23 August 2012
Penfolds Ampoule
At the UK launch of the Penfolds ampoule – one of only 12 worldwide, at the new fine wine emporium Hedonism Wines in Mayfair, I caught up with the brilliantly-titled Ranulf Sessions, fine wine business controller for Treasury Wine Estates, to ask him about the £120,000 wine time capsule, which comes with a promise that Penfolds chief winemaker, Peter Gago will travel anywhere in the world to open it for the buyer. Hope it's not corked...
Wednesday, 22 August 2012
Alistair Viner, Hedonism Wines
At the press preview of Hedonism Wines, the cavernous new fine wine temple in Mayfair boasting all five first growths, Pétrus, DRC, Le Pin and Château d'Yquem among many others, I caught up with head buyer Alistair Viner (previously of Harrods) to find out the meaning behind the name, who the shop is aiming to attract, the theatre of large format bottles, and the most expensive wine at Hedonism.
Monday, 20 August 2012
Wasps: a wine lover’s best friend?
Though
seeming to cause nothing but annoyance to unassuming innocent bystanders, researchers
from Yale University have discovered that wasps and hornets carry the yeast responsible
for the fermentation of wine, beer and bread. As reported on db.com, the study, recently published in
the Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences journal, found that the yeast can live
in the gut of the wasp while it hibernates during winter.
When
wasps bite into grapes on the vine, they leave traces of the yeast, known as
Saccharomyces cerevisiae, behind, which helps start the
fermentation process. The researchers used DNA sequencing to analyse
the genes of the yeast, tracing them back to the wasp gut. Other insects also carry the yeast, but wasps play a special role as they harbor the
yeast during winter and can pass it on to their offspring.
The study
found that wasps also introduce other microorganisms to the grapes, which add
flavours to the wine. According to Duccio Cavalieri, professor of microbiology
at the University of Florence and one of the authors of the study, wine would
not taste the same without the yeast left behind. "Wasps are a wine
lover’s best friend," said Cavalieri, who comes from a winemaking family
in Chianti.
"The study shows it is crucial to look at conservation and the study of biodiversity – everything is linked,” he added. Ancient Romans seem to have known about the role insects play in the winemaking process. They would often plant gardens next to their vineyards to lure wasps and other grape-loving insects to the vines.
"The study shows it is crucial to look at conservation and the study of biodiversity – everything is linked,” he added. Ancient Romans seem to have known about the role insects play in the winemaking process. They would often plant gardens next to their vineyards to lure wasps and other grape-loving insects to the vines.
Friday, 17 August 2012
Goo Goo Dolls wine to be designed by fans
American
soft rockers the Goo Goo Dolls have asked their fans to design the label for
their limited-edition wine made in collaboration with Noni Bacca Winery in
North Carolina. Unfortunately for Goo Goo devotees, the wine is destined for the
band’s private wine collection rather than supermarket shelves, though a number
of the bottles will be auctioned off with the proceeds going to youth charity
Compass House.
Launched
via the band’s fansite AbsoluteGoo.com, the top two designs will be turned into
wine labels, which will include the name of the winning artist. Labels must
measure 3.33″ by 4″ and must contain the band’s name, but don’t have to be
digitally generated – sketches and paintings are being accepted.
Noni
Bacca Winery owner Toni Incorvaia secured the collaboration through a long-standing
friendship with the band. “We’re all from Buffalo – I used to take the school
bus with the band's founder Robby Takac – we were neighbours,” Incorvaia told
StarNews. “When they played here at the Azalea Festival I had some souvenir
wine bottled for them."
Aspiring
artists can submit their label designs to the Noni Bacca Facebook page. The Goo Goo Dolls
formed in 1985, and enjoyed commercial success with their 1998 single Iris, written for the soundtrack of the
film City of Angels, starring
Nicholas Cage and Meg Ryan. In 2009, Iris
was reported as the fourth-biggest-selling song of the ‘90s on iTunes UK,
ahead of Nirvana’s Smells Like Teen Spirit.
Thursday, 16 August 2012
Hedonism Wines
Tomorrow a temple of fine wine opens in London. The Russian-owned Hedonism Wines in Mayfair boasts various vintages of all of the five first growths, along with Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, Super Tuscans Sassicaia and Ornellaia, Screaming Eagle, Pétrus, Le Pin and many other of the finest wines available to humanity.
Run by Alistair Viner, Harrods' ex head wine buyer, the most expensive single bottle on sale is Château d'Yquem 1811 at an eye-watering £100,000. I was lucky enough to be invited to the press launch on Monday night. Descending into the cavernous basement, on catching sight of the giant large format bottles on display, from Domaine de Chevalier Blanc 2000 to Château Pichon Baron Longueville 2005, I felt like Alice in Wonderland after she'd imbibed the 'Drink Me' shrinking potion. Hedonism is more Ferrari showroom than fine wine mecca.
Turning a corner, I stumble across a Surrealist cave filled with sinister hands, from Mickey Mouse gloves to lobster claws gripping the bottles in a scene straight out of a Salvador Dalí and André Breton film, with a little Labyrinth and David Lynch thrown in for good measure. Taking another turn into the unknown, I enter what looks like a forest filled with wine bottles taken captive in the corkscrew-like twisted branches.
Stopping to drink in the curious mise-en-scène, I hear a squeak and watch one of the bottles move of its own accord. It's all very Lord of the Rings – I half expect Frodo Baggins to come bounding in barefoot. Though most of the liquid treasures remain unaffordable to mere mortals, Hedonism is worth a visit for the experience alone. With so many iconic bottles on show – their lusted after labels naked and exposed – it's a wine lover's delight. Go forth and drool...
Wednesday, 15 August 2012
Julia Child loved fine wine as much as food
Clearly a
woman of impeccable taste, American TV chef and author Julia Child was as
passionate about fine wine as she was good food, and had a weakness for Château
d’Yquem, Chablis, Chambertin and classed growth Bordeaux, db.com has revealed.
Speaking
to The Oregonian on the eve of what
would have been Child’s centenary on 15 August, close friend
and travel companion Pat Pratt said: “Julia had a weakness for Château d'Yquem,
especially when served with Grand Marnier soufflé or crème brulée, but she also
paired it with foie gras or pâté.”
“We went
to visit the château in Bordeaux and were leaning over the well in the center
of the courtyard. We both lost our sunglasses down that well,” she added. Child
also had a penchant for white Burgundy, and is quoted as saying: "I would
happily die with a bottle of white Burgundy in my mouth.” She had a particular
fondness for the minerality of Chablis, which she’d pair with lobster and
oysters.
A
lifelong wine lover, Child is best known for her 1961 debut cookbook, Mastering the Art of French Cooking,
which features a chapter on wine. Her husband, Paul, was a wine educator who
kept well-stocked cellar. Keen to enhance her wine knowledge and improve her
tasting skills, Child was a member of Burgundian wine society La Confrérie des
Chevaliers du Tastevin.
She
indulged her passion for wine by visiting vineyards in Bordeaux, Burgundy,
Italy, Alsace and California. "At every vineyard we visited, Julia and I
would always taste one grape from the end of the row. We weren't supposed to,
but we did," Pratt told The
Oregonian. "When we had really good meals together, I would ask for
the label off the bottle,” she added.
A big
Bordeaux lover, Child showed a preference for Château Palmer, Château Lafite
and St Emilion Grand Cru Classé Ausone, which she once visited. Despite a love
of wine, Child was strict about not indulging while at work – the glasses she
raised at the end of her TV shows were filled with coloured water. For her 40th
birthday, Child enjoyed roast duck and 1926 Gevrey-Chambertin, and lusted after
Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, which she only got to drink once.
In Mastering the Art of French Cooking, Child
recommends Château La Mission Haut-Brion with veal, Corton-Charlemagne with beef, Volnay with brie and Grands-Echézeaux with veal kidneys. A
number of events organised by Les Dames d'Escoffier, an international society
of professional women in the fields of food, wine and hospitality, are taking
place across the US today to honour Child’s centenary.
Tuesday, 14 August 2012
Usain Bolt treated to £80k Champagne at Movida
The bottle, the equivalent
of 20 75cl bottles, has a retail price of £80,000. “Usain Bolt was given a
Nebuchadnezzar of Armand de Brignac Brut Gold NV,” said Movida spokeswoman
Martina Pokorna. The Champagne house only produces one bigger size bottle – the
30-litre, 40-bottle Midas, which has to be ordered in advance at clubs.
Bolt, who scooped three gold
medals at the London Olympics, was joined in the VIP area of the club by
Jamaican sprinting teammate Yohan Blake, who Bolt affectionately calls “The
Beast.” The pair partied with boxer Amir Khan, double Olympic gold medallist Mo
Farah and swimmer Rebecca Adlington, who picked up a bronze medal in London.
Across
town at Chinawhite in Piccadilly, gold medalists have been treated to
a cocktail priced at the Olympic sum of £2,012. American swimmer Ryan Lochte
and South African swimmer Chad le Clos are among the recipients of the
cocktail, which contains Hennessy Paradis Imperial Cognac and Luxor 24-carat
gold leaf Champagne. Lying at the bottom of
the glass is a pair of 18-carat gold rings.
“The golden cocktail is our special creation,
and we have given some away. Every night we have a presentation for the gold
medalists, and it has been very well received,” said Chinawhite director James
Spallone. On arrival at the club, gold medalists are handed a 75cl gold bottle of
Moët & Chandon Brut Imperial.
Monday, 13 August 2012
Wine milkshakes go on sale in US
In a move that may turn many a
stomach, LA burger chain The Counter has added wine milkshakes to its menu. As
reported on db.com, the milkshakes,
inspired by classic desserts, are being blended at select Counter restaurants
across Los Angeles. According to their creator, the wine helps to cut through
the sweetness of the shake, with the flavour more milkshake-like to start, but
with a wine finish.
The burger chain is offering
three flavors: Pinot Noir,
featuring cherries, chocolate and vanilla ice cream, Sweet Peach, made using sweet
wine, peach nectar and vanilla ice cream, and Mimosa, featuring sparkling white,
orange juice and vanilla ice cream.
Perhaps due to the ongoing
success of the Santa Barbara-based film Sideways,
in which the protagonist Miles extols the virtues of the difficult but
rewarding Pinot Noir grape, the Pinot Noir shake is proving the most popular of
the trio. The shakes can be found on pour at The Counter restaurants in Santa
Monica, Marina Del Rey, Century City, Toluca Lake, El Segundo, Torrance and Hermosa
Beach.
Sunday, 12 August 2012
Vin Gogh? Artist creates portraits using red wine
A New
York artist has come up with a novel way of making the most of her leftover
Cabernet Franc – using it to make portrait paintings. As reported on db.com, using a wax resist, 29-year-old
Amelia Fais Harnas pours six to seven layers of red wine on top of white cotton
in order to achieve the light and shade effects. To ensure the wine dries
quickly, Harnas, an avid wine lover, has to work at around 27°C, rotating
between four to six portraits at a time.
She discovered
how to make the portraits by melting dead candle remnants in a coffee can over
a propane grill and painting the wax resist on cotton bed sheets with an old
paintbrush. “The idea of painting with wine developed slowly over a couple of
years. I wondered if wine could
be used as a pigment for my portraits and started experimenting with Cahors,”
she told Solent News. “I'd love to be able to say it happened by accident,
where I spilled wine and saw Jesus's face in it, but it really resulted from a
series of what-ifs.
“I enjoy
the challenge of trying to control the unpredictable nature of wine bleeding
through fabric in order to channel the equally imprecise nature of a person’s
character,” she added. Her portraits, many of which incorporate religious
iconography, have been exhibited in New York galleries and Finger Lakes
producer Damiani Wine Cellars, whose Cabernet Franc-based Vino Rosso is almost
exclusively used in the portraits due to its deep colour and low residual sugar
content.
"I’m
intrigued by what effect wine quality will have on the works, and plan on
experimenting with all sorts of grape varieties and regions to see how the
colour, residual sugar and tannin content affect stain penetration, she told The Huffington Post. As to how long the
portraits will last, Harnas is unable to give an accurate answer, though
believes their ephemeral nature adds to the intrigue.
"I’m
doing everything in my power to ensure they last as long as possible, but part
of the excitement is how fragile the works are,” she said. Her works sell for
up to £650, depending on their size, with a 20" by 16" portrait
requiring just one glass of wine. Harnas plans to move to Paris to work on
miniature portraits using French wine.
Friday, 10 August 2012
Osteria Francescana
I’ve gone down the
rabbit hole and there’s no telling when, or if, I’ll come out. In front of me
is a dish that smells of freshly cut grass. Truffles and toad stalls float in a
thick pond of green, their tops covered with what looks like dried basil. An
excitable, bespectacled man magics himself to our table. Rubbing his hands with
glee, he explains in a faint whisper that the creation is inspired by memories
of dawn walks down a dewy northern Italian mountainside, and admits he may have
gone too far with the chlorophyll. We’re given a glass to pair with it filled
with transparent liquid.
The sommelier mutters something about ginseng. It smells cloud-like and burns in the mouth.Welcome to Osteria Francescana, the
three Michelin-starred Modena restaurant of Italian culinary wizard Massimo
Bottura, voted the fifth best restaurant in the world at this year’s
San Pellegrino World’s 50 Best Restaurants awards. Read on at The Arbuturian to find out why there's more to this lolly than meets the eye...
Thursday, 9 August 2012
El Bulli to auction cellar at Sotheby’s
Gastronomes around the world wept in
2010 on hearing the news that Spanish pleasure dome El Bulli – voted the
world’s best restaurant four years in a row – was to close its doors for good
in 2011. Now comes the news via Wine-Searcher that the restaurant is to sell off its
10,000-bottle wine cellar at a Sotheby’s auction, though the auction house is
remaining tight-lipped about details of the auction until further notice.
The three Michelin-starred restaurant near the town of roses,
160km north of Barcelona, closed its doors last July, having operated at a loss
since 2000. It is set to re-open in 2014 as a culinary think tank, where former
head chef Ferran Adrià, 50, will investigate and develop new cooking
techniques.
The 139-page,
1,600-bin list features wines from classic regions like Bordeaux, Burgundy and
Piedmont, alongside cult Californian wines, rare Sherries and Spanish icon
wines such as L’Ermita, Pingus, and Vega Sicilia Unico. Compiled by Adrià's business partner Juli Soler,
wines ranged in price from €21.40 to €5,350 for Domaine de la Romanée-Conti
Romanée-Conti 1999. Pétrus 2000 was also on the list for €3,745 a bottle.
Voted the best restaurant in the world by Restaurant magazine a record five times, El Bulli pushed the boundaries of contemporary cuisine for more than two decades with its off-the-wall dishes created using molecular gastronomy. Though its popularity came at a cost. With staff fielding more than two million reservation requests a year, the public pressures of running a restaurant influenced Adrià’s decision to close.
Voted the best restaurant in the world by Restaurant magazine a record five times, El Bulli pushed the boundaries of contemporary cuisine for more than two decades with its off-the-wall dishes created using molecular gastronomy. Though its popularity came at a cost. With staff fielding more than two million reservation requests a year, the public pressures of running a restaurant influenced Adrià’s decision to close.
“When
people bring up the issue of reservations, I have to give some kind of
explanation. We
created a monster and it was time to find a way to tame it,” he said on announcing the restaurant’s
closure. The El Bulli Foundation will grant 20-25 scholarships
annually for chefs to spend a year working with Adrià on new creations, the
results of which results will be posted online.
Wednesday, 8 August 2012
Camel Valley
On the second leg of my English wine road trip, Tobias Gorn, head sommelier of Michelin-starred Indian restaurant Tamarind in Mayfair, and I stopped off at Camel Valley in Cornwall, where we were shown around by winemaker Sam Lindo, who talked us through the Camel Valley range. In this video, we try the award-winning Pinot Noir Rosé Brut 2010, and finish up with a wine made from what could become England's flagship white grape: Darnibole Bacchus 2011. Chin chin!
Tuesday, 7 August 2012
Tomato wine craze sweeps Canada
Thought wine could only be
made from grapes? Think again. Quebec-based farmer Pascal Miche is enjoying
thriving sales of his tomato wine in Canada, crafted from a secret family
recipes. As reported on db.com, the former
butcher has sold over 65,000 bottles of tomato wine since launching it onto the
Canadian market two years ago.
Miche makes the wine from 6,200
tomato plants on his "vineyard" in Charlevoix, 400km northeast of
Montreal. "I wanted to finish what my great-grandfather had started in
Belgium in the ’30s,” he told AFP. Miche immigrated to Quebec from Belgium
seven years ago and started planting red, yellow and black tomatoes in
Charlevoix in 2009.
The crop set to ripen by
mid-August will be his third harvest, with the journey from field to bottle
taking around nine months. Before making his first batch, Miche tested 16
varieties of tomatoes in order to find six that grew well in Quebec's cool
climate. He can legally call his product "wine" in North America, but
will have to rename it if he starts exporting it to France, where only
alcoholic beverages made from fermented grape juice can be called wine.
Selecting his tomatoes with
the same care as a winemaker does grapes, to make the “wine”, the tomatoes
undergo the same process of crushing, soaking, fermenting and pressing. The
result is Omerto Sec, a clear, dry, 18% abv wine, and Omerto Moelleux, a
sweeter wine that has been compared to Pineau des Charentes, both
of which are named after Miche’s great-grandfather Omer.
According to Miche, there is
no trace of tomato in the wine, not even in the taste. Elen Garon, sommelier at
hotel restaurant La Ferme a Baie-Saint-Paul, describes the ”honey sweet” Omerto
Moelleux as having: “a hint of fruit” and “zesty aspects,” and believes it will
match well with desserts and spicy food.
The wines, which sell for
around CA$25 a 200ml bottle, are currently only availabe in select shops and
restaurants in Quebec and Manitoba. Keen to take the wine overseas, Miche is
seeking distribution in the US, France, Belgium, Germany, Luxemburg and the
Netherlands.